RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

So might as well start a thread for this. Going to build a 10T runner. I have a chassis that got some peroxide leaching on it, so I thought it would be a good chassis to use. Here is what I'm starting with :

Nice! I am going to be starting one of these soon also. Just waiting on my new arms and hardware. Are you keeping it mostly stock or are you going to heavily modify it?

Haven't decided yet. I'm going to play with some different things, so will see. I'm thinking it will be mostly stock.

Looking good Orange, nice platform to start with!!

Poor white ball cups, they appear to be in good shape.

What electronics are you going to run?

So what are the best castor blocks to run on the front of these?

Hmmm, electronics... Prolly since I have used up all my Tekins... No wait, I will prolly swipe the Tekin out of my B4.2 cus I have a brand new Flow to put in that car.. So, a tekin RS , Futaba digital servo, Futaba RX, and either a Schuur Speed motor, or a Reedy.

Castor blocks... Not sure, been too long since I drove one of these.

The ballcups are coming off with the turnbuckles and ill save them for something else down the road.

I didn't mention it before, but yes, I am going to put big bores on this truck.

I wonder how shock angle (front to back) affects handling. I suppose extreme angles would change the progression. But I'd think slight changes, like running the shocks on the back side of the rear tower would have little effect.

Associated give you quite a few spacers with the big bores I think. Would be interesting to see them mounted on an old 10T. Would have been nice to see some sort of VCS system though.

Whats your opinion on them compared to the normal shocks?

The difference between big bores and standards is better landing off jumps and better through small ruts and bumps. Its a more plush feeling. Thats the best way for me to describe it.

You only have to space out the top of the shock 2mm. Its hardly noticable. I don't know if moving the tower forward changes the handling of the car. Theoretically, it moves weight forward and by having the extra piece for the camber link, you add weight. So you would think it would have a noticable effect to the handling... I would have to run it in normal configuration on the same track to know for sure.

I don't have any plans to reverse the tower on this project though. I mostly like the tower reversed on my RC10.2 because the tower protects the shocks. It bugs me to have scratched up shock caps. Its a reminder that my car is upside down too much!

Orange. Is that a rpm conversion for the tranny? Ive got two and it looks familiar

slvrback wrote:Orange. Is that a rpm conversion for the tranny? Ive got two and it looks familiar

Yes. Not sure yet if I'm going to use it. Have to use the old slipper with it.

Ive read a Lot of guy switch the the b3 or b4 top shaft ? to use its slipper. Would it not fit on the Rpm? I'm.also figuring they fey a better finale drive ratio also?

You can use the B4 top shaft in the 2.25 stealth, not the RPM.

The drive ratio in the RPM is 2.62 in the white case and I think 2.4 in the grey case (I could be wrong on grey case, it was made for oval)

I might try this transmission, but I foresee changing to a stealth later on. Will see.

If you really want to you can. If you can still find that shaft or another that'll work.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=25449