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I got a car a few years ago that had it's nose plate "relocated" about 3/8's fwd.
Thinking it was foolish I immediately put it back to stock.

Fast fwd to today...A local indoor carpet track opened up so I decided to get to work on a woin build.
On its 1st outing the car had a serious nose high jumping issue (due to the very high grip and the steep takeoff jumps at my track). It's KILLING my lap times. Weight up front helped a bit...as did messing with spring rates/oils...but it's still bad.
I decided to go for some free weight (cg) and put it back together "extended".
Will give it another go tonight....I am sort of hoping it does not help as it looks god awful.

Has anyone else tried this?
How were the results?

nose high is not necessarily wieight distribution related - in most cases it isnt

usually its a throttle finger thing...you re accelerating till way too late in the jump

remember that kinwald and hirosaka didnt jump nose high with similar cars to yours

worst case extending wb will oly move weight dist back so it will be worse

find Ruffys setup for team car here and start from there and yull be fine

Paul

The issue is my loaner cars (losi 22 and another buds 4.1) jump perfect in my hands.
Trust me...I am the 1st person to blame the driver.
Could be a setup issue for sure.

Tools will come with me tonight...so I will work on it .
Thanks.

j.d.roost wrote:I got a car a few years ago that had it's nose plate "relocated" about 3/8's fwd.
Thinking it was foolish I immediately put it back to stock.

Fast fwd to today...A local indoor carpet track opened up so I decided to get to work on a woin build.
On its 1st outing the car had a serious nose high jumping issue (due to the very high grip and the steep takeoff jumps at my track). It's KILLING my lap times. Weight up front helped a bit...as did messing with spring rates/oils...but it's still bad.
I decided to go for some free weight (cg) and put it back together "extended".
Will give it another go tonight....I am sort of hoping it does not help as it looks god awful.

Has anyone else tried this?
How were the results?

i think this is how they should have set them up. 3 holes to clamp on the nose plate to the chassis with nut and bolt then the short buggy steering in front. this is how i set up my rc10ts and t2s and seems to be a solid set up. i have not done it on a buggy but with all the new buggies having longer wheelbase i dont see it to be a problem.. let us know how it turns out

I like to make my own front servo mount that uses the back of a center 8-32 nose plate screw. Then push the battery forward, out of the rear bulkhead. You have plenty of room to do that. I don't think simply stretching it will solve your issue at all.

On the other hand, maybe to do carpet right, you need lead. There's a thread around here somewhere....

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=30813

Ok..just got home.
The extended nose worked great.
While it still is pitchy...it's much easier to throttle control off the jump face.
Where before I felt I had to mash the brake ad soon as it launched...I now have time
to let the car arc a bit then adjust with the brake.
It also picked up corner speed and did not seem to "dig in" as much on the high speed 180's.
I was about 2 to 3 tenths faster per lap. I feel that there is an issue with the rear of the car still..as I can see the left rear dip down on most of the bigger jumps. Will need to look into that. Side by side with a 22 the car is very close to the same length.

I also got to try out a set of b4 rears (picked up the rc carbonworks rear conversion) and while I am not a fan of using dogbones..The wheels fit very nice. It was great to be able to borrow a set of rears from my b4 buds too.

If I can think of a nicer solution to the layout of the car I will fix things...but for now it looks like she is staying long...I hate the idea of adding weight to a car...it just does not sit well with me.

BTW..because of the high traction..my stealth gearbox is making a ton of noise...I have been off this board for some time and am a little out of the loop. Is everything (gear wise) still available for this? I am pretty sure I have the upgraded top shaft and b4 slipper (sorry its been a few years since I put the trans together).

Thanks again for the help guys.

You can still get the middle gear and diff gear at tower.

When you said B4 rears, What all did you mean? I'm looking into putting a b4 rear arm on my car but no clue if it would fit right.

http://rccarbonworks.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_36&product_id=108

B4 style rear rims.
This kit works great but you are forced to use stock dogbones.
I plan on switching to the cvd's (b44 rear and b4 hubs) asap.

Orange wrote:You can still get the middle gear and diff gear at tower.

Ok....and from what I understand the outdrives are not available and there is no drop in replacement...correct?

So outdrives will be the demise of the stealth transmission? Bummer...

I have a set of those. I find the cup to be a little too long for stock rc10 arms. If it slides in even a little bit, It will start hitting the arms and bind up the wheels. As nice as they are, I dont care for them very much.

as to outdrives, They are hard to find, but maybe go visit some surrounding hobby stores. I've gone to one about 40 miles away and managed to find a few set of outdrives.

Race results from sat.
Qualified 2nd behind a 22 ( but was a lap off pace).
Out qualified 2 b4's and two t4's (mixed the trucks with us).
Was running 2nd and broke a front knuckle carrier (pulled ball stud) with 25 sec. to go.
The car still jumps like a*s. It hangs the left rear low on most of the jumps. This is why the nose is sky high.
I drove 5 other cars (including my sct) yesterday and they all jump flat on the current layout we are running.
Tried swapping shocks (left to right) new oil,different springs,preloading the left rear and checking for suspension hang ups. Going to take it all apart...put it back to stock length...and check the straightness of the chassis. I also thought maybe something is going on with the diff. slowing down the left rear wheel (although it spins fine on the bench).
All in all it was fun to mix it up with the new cars...but I ordered a b4.2 today

I will continue to develop the car and break it out once in a while.

Where is this track?

http://www.ultimaterchobbyshop.com/

Croydon Pa.

I'm sure you already thought of this but what's your wing like? Try trimming the back down a bit to remove a little down force. If you have to much wicker or the angle the wing it self is to severe it might be the cause of your nose up flight.

Just as a test run the car without the wing for a few laps see if that fixes the fight issues.

Personally I've never had that issue beyond user error.