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Why is it that everyone has to drill holes into a rc10 chassis. I think everything rc10 chassis i have gotten since i have gotten into the rc10 have had holes drilled into it. Some have been drilled in so odd places too.

sorry but there is no real point to this thread. Its just that i got 2 rc10's a few days ago and both have some holes drilled into it in so weird places.

some pictures of said holes might help us take a guess at it

Because when it comes to collectables it takes decades for hindsight to kick in.

Phin wrote:Because when it comes to collectables it takes decades for hindsight to kick in.

Exactly. These things were a dime a dozen bitd. How heart broken would you be if you saw someone drilling a hole in a b4?

i will snap some photos of it when i get back to work on thursday.

Easy to fix. Warm up small area gently at a distance with heat torch, apply alloy / flux blended rod, heat for a minute or so, quench chassis in water right after. Wet and dry sand, then re-anodise. My chassis cosmetic tweaks have worked prefectly well so far. Just need to anodise it.

kink wrote:Easy to fix. Warm up small area gently at a distance with heat torch, apply alloy / flux blended rod, heat for a minute or so, quench chassis in water right after. Wet and dry sand, then re-anodise. My chassis cosmetic tweaks have worked prefectly well so far. Just need to anodise it.

Can you tell us exactly what rods you are using? Is there any variation in color of the repaired area after anodizing? If this works you just started a trend.

the repair rod he is using won't anodize properly. You would need to use 5356 filler and weld it. you will lose the temper in that localized area,but it will re-anodize to a color you pick. If you are going with gray or black, you could use 4043 filler.

It is generally called "3 in 1" aluminium weld rod. One brand is Durafix, but there are a few others out there. You can buy them on Ebay one rod at a time very cheaply.

The key is to work fast, not to over heat an area (just do it enough so it blends), then to quench the chassis as soon as you have finished. Also don't forget to sand the surfaces to join before attempting a weld, as you need to remove the oxidized surface first. Practice on scrap metal parts before you go for it. Also search on youtube for videos.

many years ago, i used those rods to create a lightspeed motor plate out of a hacked up original. worked pretty good. although i didn't anodize it afterwards, just painted it satin black.

i had a handful of the heat sinks so had to do something with them (well, one anyway ).

Those Litespeed sinks are cool. I had one on my Optima Mid. The only thing is I wish they allowed the rear curved part of the chassis to bolt onto them somehow.