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So i've got a set of plastic rims, im guessing made of nylon, that were painted a long time ago. Needless to say, the paint now looks absolutely horrible and id like to try and remove it.

Any suggestions as to what chemical can do this w/o destroying the wheels. I would hope its something i could soak the wheels in if possible, but if i need to use a small towel to slowly wipe it away i can do that.

my best guess to the paint is that it was your standard rc paint from a spray can.

I'm open to any suggestions as I'm gonna be trying to paint a few sets of wheels and possibly bodies too.

Now to my second question. Has anybody tried the chrome paints from krylon? I understand needing a black colored coating first but im just curious if there is any other steps you'd recommend to get a good finish.

purple power or full strength simple green will probably remove weak paint and chrome. you can use over cleaner on wheels with a brillo pad for stubbon paint.

actualy, the note about chrome paint was using it.

i wanna try out chroming some parts to make a chrome build on a car.

I have used Mr Clean in a heated ultra sonic tank and it takes all kinds of paint off. It also cleans the parts very nicely in an hour's time. I'm sure Mr Clean in a 10 % solution in a pot on the stove set to simmer would get the same effect.
See the Recoloring parts thread :http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=30515&hilit=recoloring
I have used the Rustoleum chrome paint, I really liked the result. It looks more like shiney new aluminum, rather than chrome. Be sure not to handle them for at least 24 hours after painting, the oils in your hands will stain the paint before it fully cures.

vsefiream wrote:I'm sure Mr Clean in a 10 % solution in a pot on the stove set to simmer would get the same effect. See the recoloring parts thread for more info.

Be careful about suggesting to boil plastic parts because some members here have had their rare Losi wheels become distorted or partially melted by doing that. Not all plastics are equal; nylon should survive a boiling or even benefit from it, but not plastics like those used in vintage Losi wheels or Tamiya parts, for example.

Easy-Off works great (again, on nylon) and requires no heat.

Coelacanth wrote:

vsefiream wrote:I'm sure Mr Clean in a 10 % solution in a pot on the stove set to simmer would get the same effect. See the recoloring parts thread for more info.

Be careful about suggesting to boil plastic parts because some members here have had their rare Losi wheels become distorted or partially melted by doing that. Not all plastics are equal; nylon should survive a boiling or even benefit from it, but not plastics like those used in vintage Losi wheels or Tamiya parts, for example.

Easy-Off works great (again, on nylon) and requires no heat.

True, boiling will distort certain plastics and nylon will hold up, although I did say simmer and that's a low heat, I did not say boil. Although my ultrasonic tank gets hot, it never gets that hot. See the recoloring parts thread, I mention not to boil LOSI parts as I melted a battery tray
I'm not a big fan of anything caustic anymore and I personally would prefer to stay away from easy off.

that chroming looks pretty decent.

Im trying to do an all aluminum build and if the chrome does more of an aluminum effect, that would end up looking nice. gold pan with all aluminum, hopefully i can get the actual aluminum to match the paint with enough polishing on it.

Easy off and brake fluid, i have used laquer thinner to remove paint from my 12l wheels, someone painted them black? The chrome process is similar to a hobby paint that was out about 15 years ago, cant remember the name.But it was from over seas and it was the best thing to matching a chrome finish with paint.I never used it but i had a chance to see some stuff painted and WOW just like it was chromed, the first step was to paint it with a gloss black paint and then the chrome paint.Thats my 2 cents, i was thinking to send some parts to chrome tech and have them plate them.Good luck...

Though I haven't tried myself, there are paints that quite closely simulate a metallic aluminum or even chrome finish. When it's painted on a hard part (like wheels for example), you first lay down some kind of undercoat. It's actually not glossy or smooth, it's a kind of flat or semi-gloss black that's needed for the following chrome paint layers to reflect & shine properly. This is because it diffracts the light. Anyway, once you have the black base-coat applied, you paint on your shiny coat; aluminum-look, chrome-look, etc.

With Lexan, it's the opposite. You paint the shiny coat first, then back it with that funky black backing paint.

Of course, no matter what paint process you use on RC wheels, the paint's gonna scuff & scrape very easily. It would only be good for a shelfer, IMHO.

Guess I'm gonna add another question.

I currently have my parts soaking in peroxide with a UV bulb on them.

Any idea on how long they can soak before i wont notice any change.

Will the peroxide harm the parts if left in too long?

Hey i remember the name of the chrome paint ALCLAD i think they are tuff to find, they used to be imported to the florida and my LHS told me years ago thay have had no luck getting in touch with the guy?? I have kept my AE parts in the peroxide bath for about 2 weeks and they look pure white, out in the sun and a piece of aluminum foil under the glass jar.The thin pieces whiten much quicker then the thick pieces. I even kept them there over night.

well if thats the case, ill be at this for a month or so then.

and yea, im leaving parts in a peroxide bath with a uv bulb on 24/7 and pray there is no fire lol

just an odd thought, Why use a glass dish with aluminum under it? Why not just get one of those reflective roast pans you can cook in? Thats what im doing at moment. that with aluminum foil wrapped around the top to almost seal the light as much as possible.

I use a old pickle jar, the foli is to bring some sun rays under to make sure they get white too.I just lightly install the metal lid back on.You will see bubbles all over the parts.You will be very happy when the parts are all white, the guys at the hobby shop told me they were not that white in the old days.You can use whatever type of container as long as the saun rays get thru.

well, its been 4 day now and my peroxide has lost its bubbly. My parts seem pretty white so im gonna hold off on them for now and start up a 2nd batch but I might look for a different container this time.

Thanks for posting that guys. I just picked up an RC10 that I plan to freshen up and run it. This will be one of the first things I do.