RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I picked up this used early HyperDrive RC10 on-road conversion last week:




I finally found a home for the JCAR DDS tranny I've had for years. I also added a Reedy Mr. F's mod, HyperDrive belt-drive system and Holeshot SuperCooler:










It might end up with some Raborn rear arms and sliders, or some Andy's if I can find them.

Perfect transmission choice but isn't the motor on the wrong side...or is it a reverse rotation motor?

Phin wrote:Perfect transmission choice but isn't the motor on the wrong side...or is it a reverse rotation motor?

Its belt driven

fastang wrote:

Phin wrote:Perfect transmission choice but isn't the motor on the wrong side...or is it a reverse rotation motor?

Its belt driven

but it's still on the wrong side if the motor's direction isn't reversed.

fastang wrote:...

Its belt driven

Yup...which is why you have to flip the motor to the other side or reverse it's rotation.


Going to have to flip the whole diff assembly too or you'll have problems with the belt sliding off.

Since it will never be run, I'll probably keep it the way it is.

I don't have a reverse-rotation motor for it. If I flip the tranny for a rear-motor setup, the motor sits too far back and looks odd. Also, if I flip only the diff, the motor pulley won't line up with the diff pulley unless I have the motor on the right side. Trust me, I spent enough time getting everything to line up.

And a big heavy motor hangin' off the right side of an oval car wouldn't really make much sense.

You always have the coolest transmissions.

i don't know if it's just an optical illusion, but are the "rear" rear arm mount holes closer together than the fronts (left to right)?

LTO_Dave wrote:...
And a big heavy motor hangin' off the right side of an oval car wouldn't really make much sense.

Makes more sense than an oval car that drives backwards.

I've only read it mentioned, but didn't racers used to flip the end bell inside mod motors to get it running in reverse?

scr8p wrote:i don't know if it's just an optical illusion, but are the "rear" rear arm mount holes closer together than the fronts (left to right)?

Seem to be just a hair. Is there a reason they might want a bit of toe-out? Or, it was designed by M.C. Escher.

Phin wrote:I've only read it mentioned, but didn't racers used to flip the end bell inside mod motors to get it running in reverse?

it's no different than clod busters. the rear motor needs to have it's direction reversed. you can set the timing at zero and rotate the endbell 180 degrees. then if you want to add the timing back, you crank the endbell towards the negative side.

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:

scr8p wrote:i don't know if it's just an optical illusion, but are the "rear" rear arm mount holes closer together than the fronts (left to right)?

Seem to be just a hair. Is there a reason they might want a bit of toe-out?

well, i could see them wanting to get 0 rear toe, and i don't think 0 degree arm mounts were out when this chassis was made.

scr8p wrote:i don't know if it's just an optical illusion, but are the "rear" rear arm mount holes closer together than the fronts (left to right)?

Yes they are. It's the first thing I noticed when I was sanding the chassis. I put a gold tub on top of the HD chassis and the rear holes are standard width, but the front holes are about 2-3mm wider. Since the HD chassis was intended for a mid-motor setup, could the hole difference be for the toe?

I also looked at the NIP HD chassis that's drilled for a Stealth, and the mounting holes are the same as the early HD chassis.

And to please the purists out there, I flipped the endbell on the Reedy and put power to it to make sure it spins forward.

Sounds like they were trying to take the toe in out of it. I don't know when 0 degree blocks came out but i bet it was after the chassis was designed. Very cool!

This thing turned out so much better than I expected! I started with a used bare-bones chassis but ended up with a rather nice shelfer. All I need is to make a front bumper with body posts and this thing will be finished.

I started with all black parts in the rear, but decided to go with white as if you got the conversion new and would use your existing RC10 parts.

Some of the parts I used:

- JCAR DDS tranny
- Raborn Telescoping Drive System with H-arms
- Tecnacraft turnbuckles
- McAllister lowering kit front center post used in the rear

You RC10 guys will recognize the rear tie-rod posts...they're the aluminum mechanical speed control mounts from my original C.E. kit. And the small tranny brace with the AE logo is part of a broken multi-tool from my original kit that I drilled and polished.

Pretty neat! Now I know what to do with all the extra AE tools I have.