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yeah, it should stop on the 'flat' where the milled flats end on the shaft.

broodenburg, you're right, you've got to drill out the case and use a crush tube otherwise the inner slipper plate will not line up properly.

Edit: It might on older shafts, but all of the plates and shafts I've used have not lined up straight, hence why on the B4 the slipper plate rides directly on one of the bearings in the case.

same here, on the top shafts I tried, it didn't stop on the flat spot....

other question:
MayorRC I saw you working with different carbon parts on the car. What can you tell about carbon suspension parts versus the "normal" ones. What works best on low bite tracks?

and the carbon rear shock tower, is that for show or does that actually do something?

For low bite, the non carbon parts are the way to go. The carbon parts really stiffen the overall car making it actually decrease traction allowing the tire to do all the work. On a loose surface you need all the grip you can, so the "softer" plastics actually work better by allowing the car to flex about more. A friend of mine owns a beautiful outdoor track that's rather dusty and low bite, so once weather gets better I'll get out there and see what I can figure out. I've honestly not driven this car in low bite conditions, just med to high bite.

great info there! thanks

You are using two lead weights am I right? I've read people putting it inside the bulkhead. You put it more in the centre of the chassis. Did you do that on purpose?

Yes, I'm running 2 weights in the front bulkhead. The extra weight in the chassis is something I experimented with last winter that I'll be revisiting soon

Team Associated's Chris Nealeigh gave his B4.2 to a local racer, and decided to drive my B3 today. TQ'ed over 13 other drivers, and won the 2nd main. I think he wants one....

!!!!!!!!

i presume the guy is a factory driver? (sorry for my ignorance )
Cool man. What were his thoughts on the B3 compared to his "normal" car?

broodenburg,

Chris drives for AE at a lot of the regional race events. He really liked the B3, saying it was very easy to drive. We were using some older batteries though, so the car didn't have enough power to make some of the feature jumps throughout the entire race.

I've moved to the B4 hex front hubs, a move that's been great on the B3 thus far. It's made the car much more predictable and easy to drive. Plus, the convenience of running hexes like my other cars has been awesome.

I've tried so hard to stop racing this car and to retire it, but I just cannot stop driving it. It's way too fun, and such a great car to race. I pick it over my B4.2 any day

Great story and great tips!

I'll trie the front hex setup. Never knew that this could have such an affect on the handling of the car.

After about 2 years of not driving the car, I finally put it back together and drove it yesterday. Now sporting an older Orion 17.5, Hobbywing ESC, and an Orion servo, the car is super fun to drive on the new carpet track. This car rotates so quickly compared to the mid motor cars, and, ironically, was one of the fastest cars at the track yesterday.

Nice, I would advise filling the lugs away front the front of the wishbones that touch the very front centre hub and put another silver wishbone brace as this strengthens the front a bit more.

Car looks great...and I agree, my B3 is the most forgiving and easiest stock buggy I have ever driven.

More info on the hex upgrade all around, just drilled B4.2 hubs on all 4 corners? What is overall width afterwards?

Would love to know the entire set up for high bite, pistons/springs/oils, ride height too

I love mine too. I haven't raced it in a while though. This build was the reason I got a B3 in the first place. Maybe it's time to break it back out.