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Say Chaps, I am in the process of working on the rear arm mounts. I want them adjustable for 0-1.5-3 degrees, which will not in itself be a prob. BUT, doing both sets of holes for adjusting the wheelbase is not gonna work cleanly with my present design. So, the big question is: do most guys run the WB short or long? I need to know so I can either do a set that'll take care of 95% of people, or if it's split enough, a set of each (One for LWB, one for SWB.)

Please let me know your thoughts Gentlemen! Thank You, Chris REC

I just started running LWB because the holes for the SWB are worn out.

Either one will be a great improvement in my opinion.

I usually run in the long position. I do not seriously race though and my tracks are large. By the way new stuff is going with the extended chassis I would say long is the way to go.

I've built them both ways, but typically in the 'long' wheelbase.

Here's a question, if you were to make the long and short wheelbase, but only do 0 degree and 3 degree positions, would that work? I'm pretty sure you would run either of those settings nominally, and if someone needed to run 1.5 degree, they could also set up to 0 at the mount, and 1.5 at the hub.

what i'm trying to say is that I think only few guys would need to have that toe granularity vs. long/short wheelbase. I'm not a hardcore racer, but I would think the wheelbase option would give you a better tuning tool than a small change in toe. So please take my opinion with a grain(maybe two) of salt.

Not to insult anyone, but a serious racer would never run the long wheelbase option because of the dogbone/axle angle it creates. Too much dynamic squat. However, the holes could be moved a smidge rearward with the 3 degree option in order to keep the dogbone/axles straight. -Jeff

Jay Dub wrote:Not to insult anyone, but a serious racer would never run the long wheelbase option because of the dogbone/axle angle it creates. Too much dynamic squat. However, the holes could be moved a smidge rearward with the 3 degree option in order to keep the dogbone/axles straight. -Jeff

I like the long wheel base setting here. -A not so serious racer.

J, I feel insulted that I can't wrap my thick skull around this one. I thought dynamic anti-squat changes with where your toe-in is coming from (the carriers versus the arm mounts). I don't want to take this thread sideways, but how does an angle in the dog-bone (that comes purely from sliding the rear arm mount backward) really matter?

edit - Looking forward to these Chris! Thanks!. Even though I do agree with the material comment by jwscab below, I would be willing to try aluminum bolted to aluminum in this case. I could always use nylon 8-32 screws if I thought I needed a fuse there.

whichever way you design them, I think you should make them from 6/6 nylon, you would have a larger customer base that way. The plastic construction there tends to be the fuse, where aluminum would move the stress farther inboard, ie, the chassis.

I put in some significant time today prepping one of the RC10 models I plan to take to VONats this year.

The particular model I am working on, I bought as used/good condition - while taking it apart I notice the previous owner had it in the long wheelbase configuration.
- My instinct was to rebuild as short wheelbase (i.e. the rearward holes on rear arm mounts)
- Then I thought, is there any tuning science that would support using one wheelbase option over the other?

Well, it looks like the original RC10 Worlds manual recommended the short wheelbase configuration.
BUT, the Worlds ReRe manual recommends the long wheelbase...

Above thread seems like there are opinions to support both options?
- Certainly the funky shock/dog-bone angles are one reason to go short.


Any new or different thoughts on this wheelbase question??

If you look in the setup pages on AE's site, you will see that BK still used the short wheelbase at that time.

dldiaz wrote: ↑Sat Sep 03, 2022 11:18 pm I put in some significant time today prepping one of the RC10 models I plan to take to VONats this year.

The particular model I am working on, I bought as used/good condition - while taking it apart I notice the previous owner had it in the long wheelbase configuration.
- My instinct was to rebuild as short wheelbase (i.e. the rearward holes on rear arm mounts)
- Then I thought, is there any tuning science that would support using one wheelbase option over the other?

It's a tuning option. Get some practice in and try it each way. It should be a lot like weight distribution: pushing the weight of the car more to the rear wheels or the front wheels.

toyranosaur wrote: ↑Fri Jan 25, 2013 1:29 pm Say Chaps, I am in the process of working on the rear arm mounts. I want them adjustable for 0-1.5-3 degrees, which will not in itself be a prob. BUT, doing both sets of holes for adjusting the wheelbase is not gonna work cleanly with my present design. So, the big question is: do most guys run the WB short or long? I need to know so I can either do a set that'll take care of 95% of people, or if it's split enough, a set of each (One for LWB, one for SWB.)

Please let me know your thoughts Gentlemen! Thank You, Chris REC

I run the short wheelbase. It's the manual setup and I don't race.
Would the 0 degree setup allow for Traxxas bandit arms on a classic rc10?

JosephS wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 12:43 pm Would the 0 degree setup allow for Traxxas bandit arms on a classic rc10?

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=40129

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 1:28 pm

JosephS wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 12:43 pm Would the 0 degree setup allow for Traxxas bandit arms on a classic rc10?

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=40129

That post is why I am asking. I wasn't sure if the nix parts were needed or if 0Degree mounts were enough.

JosephS wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 3:06 pm

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 1:28 pm

JosephS wrote: ↑Sun Sep 04, 2022 12:43 pm Would the 0 degree setup allow for Traxxas bandit arms on a classic rc10?

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=40129

That post is why I am asking. I wasn't sure if the nix parts were needed or if 0Degree mounts were enough.

RC10 rear mounts are a good bit wider than Traxxas mounts. The hinge pin is larger as well.