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I picked up a sheet of 1/8 g-10 and was going to cut out some shock towers. I have a scroll saw, cutoff wheel etc. Is there anything special I need to know before I start cutting? I know the dust is an itchy pita but is there anything else? Thanks

Nick

a mask.

if i remember correctly you want to put tape over the fiberglass before cutting.. helps with the fiberglass splintering when you are cutting it

Where do you guys pick up this fiberglass sheet?

Here is list of tips I have:

wherever possible, cover the part with some clear tape, such as packing tape, front and back. this prevents any tools from gouging the surface. I go one step farther in that my part templates I cut out of white paper, and tape in place on the fiberglass. This gives me a line to cut to as well as center marks for holes.

I use a hacksaw with the parts in a vise (4") jaws, and I ride the blade along the jaws for a straight cut. Rough cut the piece out of the sheet so it's manageable. I make my cuts just shy of the true line, and then use files to slowly work up to the cut line. So for instance, leave the cut line slightly below the surface of the vise jaws, and then follow up with the files, this will give the edges a nice smooth finish.

back up the parts when drilling holes, so that it does not splinter on the back side. I use plexiglass scrap, or hard wood, mdf, scrap fiberglass, aluminum. Ideally it's close to the hardness of the fiberglass, or harder.

where you are going to use an internal radius, use a drill to make that radius, and then cut up to the radius. I do all my finish work with hand files and belt/disc sander. again with the vise, I'll place the part with the cut line on the vise jaw, and file till I hit the vise jaw.

If you are making long rectangular (straight) cuts, you can actually score the fiberglass a bunch of times with an xacto blade front and back and bend over in a vise/brake until it snaps cleanly in half. This procedure in not for the faint of heart, and you have to finish the edges quite a bit as it does leave it a bit ragged.

there are some good pictures of some stuff I cut out in this thread.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=16813&hilit=weapon+beginnings&start=15

I have started using a coping saw to get some tight bends and to make a cutout that has no outlet(like a big trapezoid hole for instance). I use the belt sander or files to make external curves, I usually make all my cuts straight, then finish off the points into a radius.

you can get the fiberglass sheet in about a thousand different places. Mcmaster carr is a good source, and many other places online sell G10/garolite sheet.

jwscab wrote:Here is list of tips I have:

wherever possible, cover the part with some clear tape, such as packing tape, front and back. this prevents any tools from gouging the surface. I go one step farther in that my part templates I cut out of white paper, and tape in place on the fiberglass. This gives me a line to cut to as well as center marks for holes.

I use a hacksaw with the parts in a vise (4") jaws, and I ride the blade along the jaws for a straight cut. Rough cut the piece out of the sheet so it's manageable. I make my cuts just shy of the true line, and then use files to slowly work up to the cut line. So for instance, leave the cut line slightly below the surface of the vise jaws, and then follow up with the files, this will give the edges a nice smooth finish.

back up the parts when drilling holes, so that it does not splinter on the back side. I use plexiglass scrap, or hard wood, mdf, scrap fiberglass, aluminum. Ideally it's close to the hardness of the fiberglass, or harder.

where you are going to use an internal radius, use a drill to make that radius, and then cut up to the radius. I do all my finish work with hand files and belt/disc sander. again with the vise, I'll place the part with the cut line on the vise jaw, and file till I hit the vise jaw.

If you are making long rectangular (straight) cuts, you can actually score the fiberglass a bunch of times with an xacto blade front and back and bend over in a vise/brake until it snaps cleanly in half. This procedure in not for the faint of heart, and you have to finish the edges quite a bit as it does leave it a bit ragged.

there are some good pictures of some stuff I cut out in this thread.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=16813&hilit=weapon+beginnings&start=15

I have started using a coping saw to get some tight bends and to make a cutout that has no outlet(like a big trapezoid hole for instance). I use the belt sander or files to make external curves, I usually make all my cuts straight, then finish off the points into a radius.

you can get the fiberglass sheet in about a thousand different places. Mcmaster carr is a good source, and many other places online sell G10/garolite sheet.

what thickness do you typically use?

typically used thickness are:

.093", and 1/8". thicker for chassis, thinner for shock towers, though .093" isn't as easy to find as 1/8". Stock associated shock towers are .093"(3/32")
2mm, 3mm, 3.5mm usually the thickness for carbon/graphite sheets. I personally think 2mm is too thin for anything 'stressed', such as shock towers, etc. Trans brace, battery brace, steering rack, etc is good with 2mm.

really up to you, for fiberglass, even at 1/8", it's flexible and should be designed as a 2 deck or with provisions to strengthen the front bulkhead/kickup that is used.

I got the 1/8 g10 from mcmaster carr. best price I found on the net anyway. Cut it out with my scroll saw and a 10tpi blade. much easier to work with than aluminum. Sadly it seems to be the exact same weight though but I can live with that. Almost no cleanup after drilling and cutting with the scroll saw.

My first glass tower for my 10T shortcourse.
After cutting before cleanup




Nick

not bad! thought it would be harder with graphite

Graphite? This was fiberglass. I did find out today that it takes one scroll saw blade per shock tower. I cut one out with a new blade and went to use it today and there is almost no teeth left. Good thing blades are cheap.

Nick

realized it after i looked at the pic again.. how long did it take you?

Actual cut time was less than a minute. Measuring and drilling took most of an hour because i work really slow. You dont even want to know how long it took to cut out the bulkhead.

Nick

The scroll saw blade you had was probably carbon steel for use with wood, not composites. You can buy HSS blades but probably hard to find locally.

I use a hacksaw, the blades last forever, and they don't kick up dust, which is not good for you.

I didn't notice much if any dust. With the teeth it was more small chips than anything.