RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hey Guys,

I have built a few rc10s and rc10ts that I run around my little track in the backyard. But, I have been thinking that it would be fun to actually race. So I put this together to race in the 17.5 blinky series.
I had this chassis sitting around for a while, and I wasn't planning to use it in the finished car, but now that I have everything set I think I will go with the cheese grater.

I don't have any experience with racing beside my own bashing. I have set the ride height equal from front to rear. I have about 2 degree caster on the front. My gearing is 75/30. Koshyo gold shocks with associated gold springs on the front and green associated springs on the back. I have 30wt oil front and back. The ires are dBoots.
This is an indoor carpet track.

If anyone has any comments or insights or anything else, I would really appreciate it. I am a bit apprehensive about this. I really don't want to show up and make a complete fool of myself.

Thank you

try some brown or green springs up front, golds are a bit too heavy.

those greens are good on the back.

good luck and have fun!

I wouldn't be apprehensive. We have new guys show up all the time and they might need a couple of weeks to even get around the track, but they have a blast. If you have a backyard track then you're already way ahead of a lot of people. It may be 3 months before you're competitive so don't be disappointed if the first few weeks are a bit rough. See if they have any practice times and go get a few packs in then. That will make a huge difference. Ask more questions about routine racing maintenance, rules and the way things work at the track when you first get there. Get a feel for some of the racers before you ask anyone too many questions about your car's setup for that particular track. If you ask too early and the wrong person they can sometimes latch on to you and pester you about why you're not doing what they told you to do. We have a few guys at our track like that and we have to sometimes remind them how annoying they sound...

Everyone gets along great and has a good time though. Once you get the first week butterflies out of your way and learn the routine then you can really concentrate on setup and driving. You'll have a blast! Welcome.

oh yeah, i forgot to add....slow is fast. when you can make it around the track without needing a turn marshall you'll beat the guys that have a faster cars but crashes alot.

Thanks,

I switched to green springs in front.

My little backyard track is pretty tricky.. hit a pinecone, get stuck on a stick or pile of leaves, and pine needles make it pretty slick, so hopefully this will be easier to get around.

I have to say this is the tightest buggy I have built. Everything is shimmed and about as good as I can make it. I rebuilt the transmission, putting ceramic balls in it, and it is smooth. I actually thought it was fine to start with.

So, I think it will be good.

I forgot to mention it, but the buggy looks solid. The "Speed Holes" aren't done in a way that weakens the chassis too much. I meant to ask if there was a reason you mounted the rear shocks on the back side of the tower? They may perform a bit better up front, but it's your buggy.

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:. I meant to ask if there was a reason you mounted the rear shocks on the back side of the tower? They may perform a bit better up front, but it's your buggy.

Thanks for asking, that's helpful feedback.

A bunch of little things seemed to add up to the shocks farther back then seems normal. The way the chassis was drilled for the steath required me to mount the a arms farther back for the bones to clear the mounts. (like I said, I wish I had just used a different chassis). That plus the smaller bottom shock mounts made the shocks line up more closely to the rear of the shock tower. I actually have a spacer between the shock tower and the bulkhead so the tower is slightly forward. The top shock mounts are backwards so ths shocks are closer to the tower and I removed some material from the tower to allow the top of the shocks to clear it.

It seemed like it shouldn't make too much difference as long as they are pretty straight. Do you think that is right or is it not a good idea?

Clay, When you get there and your on the stand say "guy this is my first race, with that said im sorry". Nothing you do after that will make you look like a fool.

Bent wrote:Clay, When you get there and your on the stand say "guy this is my first race, with that said im sorry". Nothing you do after that will make you look like a fool.

Accept when, three laps down, you take out the front runner fighting for the inside line.

almost forgot, nice buggy!

suby56 wrote:

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:. I meant to ask if there was a reason you mounted the rear shocks on the back side of the tower? They may perform a bit better up front, but it's your buggy.

It seemed like it shouldn't make too much difference as long as they are pretty straight. Do you think that is right or is it not a good idea?

It seems like it would be a bit smoother with less binding if it were in the front, but if it feels smooth to you then give it a shot.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get that gold heatsink? Looks snazzy

teman wrote:If you don't mind me asking, where did you get that gold heatsink? Looks snazzy

Reminds me of the heatsinks on old Tekin peak chargers. It's a good match on the ano whatever it is.

Bent wrote:Clay, When you get there and your on the stand say "guy this is my first race, with that said im sorry". Nothing you do after that will make you look like a fool.

This seems like a good approach.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190710367111?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 heat sink. I just drilled it and tapped it foe a 8-32 screw.


I just got back, and it didn't go so well. I was getting serious traction roll. (remember this is on carpet) One of the regular drivers gave it a couple laps and had the same result. I lowered it as far as possable,put on stiffer springs, and stood them up but it still required alot of care to get through the corners without rolling over.

Watching those Losi tlr 22s fly around the track and change direction at will, I thought I had better rethink this setup.

Would the longer arm Dynotech setup help? Is there lower profile wheels that work on carpet? I am thinking the main improvement would be lowering the center of gravity. And secondly it seems logical that the longer arms put the arm pivots closer to the center of the buggy and that seems better, although I am not sure why.

Thanks

What tires are they running? Those you have look pretty aggressive for carpet. That can cause you to roll for sure. Hang in there. No one goes out and kills the first week.