RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Well, I was bitten by the RC10 bug and picked up this lot for 50 bucks shipped! I thought it was a great deal. Not sure what all I got but the black painted chassis is pretty much toast with some custom made parts with some weird looking front tires (never seen them before).

The other roller is in decent shape and will need a thorough cleaning. Both the rollers look to have the 6 gear transmission (I think?).
The lot also came with some spare transmissions (look to be all Stealth) and motor plates. Also there were some spare shock towers, CVD’s, and a couple steering racks, one is aluminum, not sure who made it or if it is even for the RC10. The other is plastic, and some pins and other random parts.

So my plan is to restore the one if I can find all the parts needed to make it look as good as new again. I’m not sure what versions these are even after looking at all the pages in the “First 25 years of the RC10”. LOL

The other one will be torn apart and maybe built into a basher if I can find the parts to do so.

Here are some pictures:

Some more pics...

Very good score for $50! Transmissions in the chassis are 6 gear; the three seperate black case transmissions are Stealth based; now whether they're the first gen or subsequent variants I can't say as I'm lost after the first run of those transmissions!

Looks like you have lots to keep you busy; have fun!

Allen

SFC K wrote:Some more pics...

Top to bottom:
b4 stealth
b2/b3 stealth
original stealth

Bellcranks are Losi/RCPS.

Front wheels are I believe from an Ishipla Monster.

And I think that blue body may be a Proline Class One.

Thanks Allen! I thought it was a good score too!

Phin wrote:

SFC K wrote:Some more pics...

Top to bottom:
b4 stealth
b2/b3 stealth
original stealth

Bellcranks are Losi/RCPS.

Front wheels are I believe from an Ishipla Monster.

And I think that blue body may be a Proline Class One.

Thanks for the info on the transmissions. I was looking at them saying to myself that they were all different. Wow!

I have a lot of work to do...

Scratch that...I think the top one is a T2 not a B4.

ya, the top one is a t2 trans.

like the green front rims with the oldschool tires, very cool.this lot reminds me of when ebay had deals like this. the reason i have so much stuff is cause id never buy the 1 part i needed id buy a lot like this that had the part i was looking for. perfect example is that metal steering you got. people tryed selling them for $40, i found 2 cars 1 with metal steering for about the same price. nice score good luck

longboardnj wrote:like the green front rims with the oldschool tires, very cool.this lot reminds me of when ebay had deals like this. the reason i have so much stuff is cause id never buy the 1 part i needed id buy a lot like this that had the part i was looking for. perfect example is that metal steering you got. people tryed selling them for $40, i found 2 cars 1 with metal steering for about the same price. nice score good luck

I was very please with the purchase! I started taking the two apart today and cleaned them all up. Man, what I mess! I have all the white parts soaking in peroxide. I need to start getting my parts list together that I need. This is going to be fun!

Got it all cleaned up and put back together. Just noticed that I installed the shocks wrong so I will have fix them. Not bad for not having instructions...I noticed that one of the rear axles is hitting and binding so not sure what is going on. It looks like the outer cup is hitting the lower suspension...Not a whole lot of clearence there...Anyone notice this with these?

Looks good , if you adjust the rear arms so there more parallel , I believe it will give you more clearence between the cup and arm .

pituk wrote:Looks good , if you adjust the rear arms so there more parallel , I believe it will give you more clearence between the cup and arm .

Thanks, but how do you do that? It does not look like you can adjust these at all...

You got any limiters inside the rear shocks?

The screws at the top of the shocks (front and rear) are backwards. The head of the screw should be behind the shock tower and the nut should be in front of the cap. You're also missing a 4-40 nut (regular nut not a lock-nut) between the washer and the tower.

You can still find the manual for the original RC10 on AE's website.

Phin wrote:You got any limiters inside the rear shocks?

The screws at the top of the shocks (front and rear) are backwards. The head of the screw should be behind the shock tower and the nut should be in front of the cap. You're also missing a 4-40 nut (regular nut not a lock-nut) between the washer and the tower.

You can still find the manual for the original RC10 on AE's website.

No idea on the limiters on the shocks. I did not tear them apart...I will have to check.

I know I installed the shocks wrong. I have the link saved now to the on line manuals.
http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10/
I also forgot to put the two front brace bars on too! Guess I should not have stayed up past midnight working on it...

Update, I figured out what the problem was for the rear drive cup. The pin and the small washers (too thin) were allowing the drive cup to move back and forth in the rear hub carrier. I found some thicker washers in my parts bin to keep the hubs from moving back and forth hitting on the inside of the arms. No binding now…