RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

So last night at the local track, A-Main Raceway/Hometown hobbies, we had our first vintage class race. We are still sorting out the details, but we are keeping to standard electronics, stock brushed motors and essentially Pre- 10T2. (CE, Team cars, originals, graphite, JrxT, jr T, Pro etc).

They are also attempting to organize a "Pre-Runner" class using the Tamiya pre-runner class, but not enough showed up the first night, so the lone pre-runner ran in vintage.

There were 5 cars total, a husband and wife who i've known for a LONG time, She was running her father's Team car, husband was runing an RC10T. (They also have a RC10 w/ the Truck conversion, as well as a losi) Another racer brought out a Losi JR T, and the track owner using his pre-runner, and myself running an RC10 I had just got off Craigslist that day ($70).

Initially, i wanted to get my RC10T done and finished for the race, and after steeling some parts off my partially assembled GT, I had what i thought to be a good platform. Once I got to the track, Ii changed my mind. The car I picked up was SOOO clean, and looked really good considering. It needed a few small parts and the other RC10 I had which had had some use, needed work and was in better shape for becomming a donor. I went to work and even went so far as to swap my FT B4 shocks over to the original RC10. I figured since I didn't have current tires and potentially wouldn't have traction, i at least wanted it to jump well. I plan to go back and re-build the existing shocks, OR upgrade to team car shocks.

Vintage happened to be the first race, and I was still trying to get the car ready. Once I did get the car together, with absolutely ZERO setup on the car and using an old Reedy FORCE I motor, I put it on the track and let er rip. Despite a HUGE substantial push in the front (bald narrow tires) I did manage to win that heat!

The next round, I took what i thought was a fully charged pack and got about a lap in before I dumped. The other pack which finished soon there after had TONS of power and I could have probably done very well in that race, but hey, thats racing.

It was equipped with a HiTec HFX esc, Futaba radio (3PJS) Reedy Force I motor, B4 FT threaded shocks, Hitec digitl servo, and the stock "nubby" tires.

I had the oldest car on the track, and lots of people stopped by to look at my collection. many rememberd starting out with those cars and I was also asked if i was going to run in the normal buggy class. We'll see. I really want to start racing regularly, but we'll see.

Later that night, the husband of the couple offered me a deal on an RC10 Team car he got as parts for his wifes car. She was discouraged by her car blowing thru spur gears and the fact it belonged to her father. I may be acquiring some of their other older RC10 stuff should they get out of it. In addition, another fellow racer has a friend in FL who has some vintage RC10s that no one wants. He told me he would pass along my name and perhaps MORE classic stuf will be headin my way.

The Team car I got is in great shape too. I perhaps will retire my 6 gear and instead run the team car. We'll see. I'll post a thread in the Readers ride section soon of my AE family.


If anyone still races vintage, do you have any setup tips, or suggestions for modern gearing? I managed to find some Robinson 32pitch pinions.


MOmo

I run a shock setup similar to the one Pavidis used on his 10T:

Front:
-#3 piston, 35wt oil (30wt if running stock), 3 .030 shims inside each shock, blue spring
-outside hole on 2-hole shock tower, middle hole if using 3-hole shock tower
-standard hole on old 10T a-arms or inside hole of T2 arms
-ride height: arms level

Rear:
-#1 piston, 30wt oil, blue spring (you can try softer silver springs, but be sure to use lots of preload/higher ride height)
-inside hole on shock tower
-middle hole on a-arm
-ride height: driveshaft level (blue spring) or driveshaft slightly above level (silver spring)

Good luck!

So I posted up on Associated site about gearing.

"Your name: MOmo
Electric kit referenced: 6 Gear RC10
Comments: I Love Old School!

As a longtime racer, and fan of AE, I have begun collecting the vintage RC10s, I have 3 #6010 RC10s w/ the 6 gear transmission and 32pitch gears.

We have started a vintage class at my local track and I would like to run more current motors while sticking to the 32pitch gearing. I would like to know what proper gearing would be for a vintage RC10? I looked at the gearing chart and the other newer models are listed, but not for the older ones.

Also, with the stealth equipped Team car and RC10T, I would expect the gearing to be the same as with current models?

Thanks"

Answer: You will want to start off with a 54/16 spur-to-pinion combination for a stock motor. The RC10T had a tranny ratio of 2.25 to 1 so the gearing will be different than today’s trucks.


Now i just have to make sure i can still get spur gears!

MOmo

Just do the math and go 48P. Seems all the 32P spurs are discontinued, the last AE ones were 48T, I've not been able to find new 54T in a while. Robinson still offers 32P pinions...but no spurs other than RC10GT which start at 60T... there are some 54T listed, but no diff ball holes...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=robinson+32

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=32p++spur

So what all is needed? Would i just have to pull off the existing spur and update it to the current ones? or are there other parts needed?


MOmo

That would be it. Just remove the old spur gear, pop out the eight diff balls from it, put them in the new spur (you might need four more if you use a Kimbrough, they use twelve diff balls I think), re-install and reset gear mesh w/pinion, run the car, don't crash and enjoy

ps.-I'm not sure if the 60t spur gear or larger would fit with the gear cover on though.

For stock racing, start with a 84 tooth (48 pitch), and gear accordingly. For most tracks here in So Cal area, that means between a 9.5 and 10 final drive. For mod, I plan on shooting for a 10.5 final drive (GTB 6.5). I havent decided on 6 gear or stealth trans yet, so pinions are still up in the air.

any got the internal ratio of the 6 gear tranny? I am thinking 1.85

6 gear tranny (if internal is 1.85): 84/16*1.85=9.71 final drive
Stealth tranny (internal is 2.25): 81/19*2.25=9.59 final drive

These are my thoughts anyways...could be wrong of course, I am not the fastest driver in my parts.

This might help... I think?

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/techearlyrc10.htm#7

danglenode wrote:This might help... I think?

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/techearlyrc10.htm#7

Way to help, Associated...

I think Tony Phalen might be "Captain Helpful" there... I think he was born right about when the RC10 was born...

*Update*

Well, we had another vintage race on Friday. I had my Team car out again, and this time, 2 other guys brought out team cars and one regular had a 10T. I'll have some pictures coming soon. I will add them as soon as they are sent to me.

The track I race on is a packed clay, blue groove. Most of the racers running newer cars are running taper pins. I am still running the stock "spike" tires, but i hope to update to the B3 rear tires and universals.

I feel the car is setup pretty well, but I would like to find some older Setup sheets from old races to compare.


In the vintage class, after a race, those racers who finish the race, get to choose a playing card. If you finish 1st, you get to draw an extra card (which i did for all 3). Then at the end of the night, we play a Texas hold-em style and best had wins. i won 10 race bucks which cover my entree fee!

Despite my traction issues, the other racer who is probably my toughest competition, kept breaking out. I managed to stay pretty constistant and drive a good line. Very few mistakes. Along the back we have a huge quad section that I am able to get through by doing a Triple-Single through the 4 jumps. I can hit this consistantly. Once I get the right tires, i should be able to put down faster times.


Pics coming soon.


MOmo

that sounds so exciting Momo. I can't wait for pictures. You mentioned in an earlier post about switching to b4 tires. My Question is why, what are the advantages. Can't you just use truck tires in the rear? Have you tried the Proline gladiator or the Tracta gators? I have gladiators on a T2 and it seems to do pretty good at a track I play on. I don't race there cuz they don't have vintage class and I jsut like to play anyway. Im running a 17t motor in the T2, its very quick.

RC Chick wrote:that sounds so exciting Momo. I can't wait for pictures. You mentioned in an earlier post about switching to b4 tires. My Question is why, what are the advantages. Can't you just use truck tires in the rear?

I race a buggy and I think the Truck tires wouild be too wide and too big. I thought the B4 would work, but based on my initial test, It appears that the offset it wrong. The wide wheels rub on the shocks, its a bad offset. The B3 allows for a wider stance that clears the shocks and provides the right offset.

As long as the 2.2 buggy wheels have the right offset, it should work. Im also looking for alternative wheel options. I really don't need much. I recall the new ThunderTiger shares a similar wheel offset of the B3. I would likely use Panther tires or Losi Taper pins, since those work on my local track.

I have used Gladiators and I do like them when I bash with my trucks. I have my first T2 that I need to restore, i have all the parts, just need to re-assemble it. I also have a 10T and possibly a 2nd 10T from a local racer.


MOmo

Oh, I was assuming that you were racing a 10T, My bad. Now it makes sense. Good luck with your T2 getting back up and running.

First off, awesome stuff. The local track here races every other Sunday and they started a 2-wheel drive exhibition only race. Everyone here is into 1/8 buggy or truggy or monster truck. 2wheel drive is not as popular.

I am going this Sunday to watch and hopefully I will be racing the next race day.

Secondly, I don't mean to hijack your thread and should probably start a new one. But I have never raced at a track event in the almost 30 years I have been into RC cars. What do you mean by blue groove track? I understand it is clay. NP. But I am confused on the groovy part.

Blue Groove, AFAIK, is high traction track designed with packed clay or dirt. The track has distinct lines that wear into the course and create a "groove". On many other tracks, with loomy or loos conditions, its hard to maintain the same line, or ideal line. I could be waaaay off on this, but thats what it seems to me.

Strangely, BLUE-GROOVE isn't in Wikipedia!


As for racing, just be aware, if they are doing an exhibition class, most of the 2wd will likely be more modern cars. not sure if the vintage you have in mind will be able to hang. Not to mention it could turn into a hack-fest.

I personally would LOVE to run a vintage graphite RC10 in a stock buggy class w/ modern elec. and see it do well. I would hate to have to find replacements though should it break.


MOmo