RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi,

I just joined. I was really into RC when I was a kid. I bashed and raced mostly Tamiya cars. Near the end of when I was really into RC I got a gold pan "Cadillac". I must not have used it that much because its in really good shape now.

Anyway, I've taken an interest in doing RC again and as the Tamiya cars I have are well...Tamiya cars, I decided that the RC 10 would be the best candidate for a modern day racer. The old Tamiya cars I had, Blackfoot, Falcon etc.. I patched together from ebay and other sources but I wanted to limit the investment so I kept them brushed and used all the original equipment. The kids love them. I have to say that the Futaba electronics had to have been sitting for like 25 years and it all worked no problem.

The RC10 while in good condition was basically a rolling chassis with a steering servo. My goal...build a reliable sensored / brushless 2.4 ghz race worthy buggy as cheaply as possible. Over the last 6 months or so I've been scoping out parts etc.. here is what I came up with.

Hobby King (Sensored/Sensorless) ESC - I know I know but try and find one for less with the same specs....
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17232__Hobby_King_60A_Sensored_Sensorless_Car_ESC_1_10_1_12_.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10458__Hobby_King_HKSS_programming_card_for_HK_150A_ESC_.html

Value Hobby Gforce 17t Brushless Motor - Sorry Hobbypartz but they had stock.
http://www.valuehobby.com/power-systems/brushless-motors/gforce-540y-inrunner-motor.html

FlySky GT3B 2.4 ghz
http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html

Total Cost: 112.81

I'm heading to the local track tomorrow night to try it out. Hopefully I dont break anything.

Anybody else still racing their vintage RC10?

Hope this helps someone else looking to build a budget racer.

Here are 2 of my racers:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=19119&start=45

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=27149&start=15

And a good setup discussion:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=27135&start=60

Plenty of us still racing the old 10s out there

Thanks for the links "JK Racing". I have definitely got some work to do..

I learned a lot tonight on the track though...

1. My steering was horrible.
I'm thinking the linkage, maybe the bellcranks and perhaps a stronger servo may be needed.

2. My traction was horrible.
This is a clay track http://www.rcexcitement.com and although I didn't expect my handling to be great it was worse than I expected. Jumps were so so as long as I stayed on the throttle.

The steering pushes a lot and I'm not sure if tires alone will fix that.

3. Damage Report.
Not as bad as I expected. I need a bumper though...

• I popped the steering linkage off the car a few times. These will definitely need to be upgraded.
  
  I broke the front body mount off
  
  My wing came off immediately and spent the rest of the day on the bench.
  
  I also heard to slipper slipping a bit.. I have it cranked down quite a bit and am not sure if I should be worried...
  
  One of my steering knuckles is cracked. Not sure where to get a new one of those..

Lots of fun!

rcz wrote:Thanks for the links "JK Racing". I have definitely got some work to do..

I learned a lot tonight on the track though...

1. My steering was horrible.
I'm thinking the linkage, maybe the bellcranks and perhaps a stronger servo may be needed.

2. My traction was horrible.
This is a clay track http://www.rcexcitement.com and although I didn't expect my handling to be great it was worse than I expected. Jumps were so so as long as I stayed on the throttle.

The steering pushes a lot and I'm not sure if tires alone will fix that.

3. Damage Report.
Not as bad as I expected. I need a bumper though...

• I popped the steering linkage off the car a few times. These will definitely need to be upgraded.
  
  I broke the front body mount off
  
  My wing came off immediately and spent the rest of the day on the bench.
  
  I also heard to slipper slipping a bit.. I have it cranked down quite a bit and am not sure if I should be worried...
  
  One of my steering knuckles is cracked. Not sure where to get a new one of those..

Lots of fun!

welcome to the wonderful world of transitioning from bashing in an open area to racing on a tight track Happened to all of us at some point The question now is do you want to go forward with racing your vintage car or moving forward to a newer platform wiith lesser challenges . Here's a few points on the RC10 if you decide to stick with it:

1- steering - yes, you probably need a better servo, check out anything that's 0.10 or 0.12s/60deg, and 6kg.cm is enough for 2wd. There's a reason why aftermarket steering systems were the most popular hop-up bitd too, the stock parts on any other version than the Worlds Car is horrible! Try to get your hands on an A&L setup, Daryl Lane (the "L" in A&L) is a member here and will tell you how to purchase. Plus it looks cool! before all, check whether your steering simply wouldn't be binding ("sticking").

2- traction - to ensure proper (I assume you mean forward) traction, you need 1- the right rear tires 2- the right slipper setup 3- the right rear shocks 4- a diff in top-shape 1 is obvious, run what the fast guys run at your track. 2 and 4, there's a great thread on rctech in the offroad electric section, it's a sticky, read it, lots of info there. 3, disassemble your shocks, buy new o-rings, reassemble as per instructions, you should be all set

3- Damage - stock ballcups werent great bitd to start with, get yourself some modern rpm ones, or better, the newer lunsfords are fantastic. I didn't know one could break the front mount!!! How did you manage this one, is the screw hole just stripped (in which case the screw was too short) or did it snap in half (which is quite a feat)? Wing is critical to handling... you must find a way to make it stay on the car - without a wing there's no point trying to set the car up really, it's like running with the wrong tires... slipper/diff (not sure what was slipping here) - refer to that thread. And tone the motor setup down with the ESC, less punch in 2WD is key. To replace broken parts, ebay is your friend. I don't think the steering knuckles are hard to get

Happy racing!

Paul

Lonestar wrote:

rcz wrote:Thanks for the links "JK Racing". I have definitely got some work to do..

I learned a lot tonight on the track though...

1. My steering was horrible.
I'm thinking the linkage, maybe the bellcranks and perhaps a stronger servo may be needed.

2. My traction was horrible.
This is a clay track http://www.rcexcitement.com and although I didn't expect my handling to be great it was worse than I expected. Jumps were so so as long as I stayed on the throttle.

The steering pushes a lot and I'm not sure if tires alone will fix that.

3. Damage Report.
Not as bad as I expected. I need a bumper though...

• I popped the steering linkage off the car a few times. These will definitely need to be upgraded.
  
  I broke the front body mount off
  
  My wing came off immediately and spent the rest of the day on the bench.
  
  I also heard to slipper slipping a bit.. I have it cranked down quite a bit and am not sure if I should be worried...
  
  One of my steering knuckles is cracked. Not sure where to get a new one of those..

Lots of fun!

welcome to the wonderful world of transitioning from bashing in an open area to racing on a tight track Happened to all of us at some point The question now is do you want to go forward with racing your vintage car or moving forward to a newer platform wiith lesser challenges . Here's a few points on the RC10 if you decide to stick with it:

1- steering - yes, you probably need a better servo, check out anything that's 0.10 or 0.12s/60deg, and 6kg.cm is enough for 2wd. There's a reason why aftermarket steering systems were the most popular hop-up bitd too, the stock parts on any other version than the Worlds Car is horrible! Try to get your hands on an A&L setup, Daryl Lane (the "L" in A&L) is a member here and will tell you how to purchase. Plus it looks cool! before all, check whether your steering simply wouldn't be binding ("sticking").

2- traction - to ensure proper (I assume you mean forward) traction, you need 1- the right rear tires 2- the right slipper setup 3- the right rear shocks 4- a diff in top-shape 1 is obvious, run what the fast guys run at your track. 2 and 4, there's a great thread on rctech in the offroad electric section, it's a sticky, read it, lots of info there. 3, disassemble your shocks, buy new o-rings, reassemble as per instructions, you should be all set

3- Damage - stock ballcups werent great bitd to start with, get yourself some modern rpm ones, or better, the newer lunsfords are fantastic. I didn't know one could break the front mount!!! How did you manage this one, is the screw hole just stripped (in which case the screw was too short) or did it snap in half (which is quite a feat)? Wing is critical to handling... you must find a way to make it stay on the car - without a wing there's no point trying to set the car up really, it's like running with the wrong tires... slipper/diff (not sure what was slipping here) - refer to that thread. And tone the motor setup down with the ESC, less punch in 2WD is key. To replace broken parts, ebay is your friend. I don't think the steering knuckles are hard to get

Happy racing!

Paul

Thanks for the advice.

Steering
On closer inspection some of my steering slop was due to loose nuts / screws where the bellcranks attach. So I took care of that which will help some.

I also think that I did have a little rubbing going on between the servo linkage and the bellcranks. I did not have the stock linkage so I had made some similar to the original out of some piano wire (which i had left over from recreating the stock steering linkage for my old Tamiya cars ). Once I bent the linkage up some and re-calibrated the servo arm for the adjustment in length I think the steering was a bit better.

Watching the action though the wheels never seem to quite get back to center properly. I don't think its the servo but due to slop in the whole stock servo -> bellcrank configuration. If I turn left it will return slightly left..if I turn right it will return slightly right. I'm running an old FP-s128 servo at the moment but honestly I think I'll start with the bellcranks and linkage before changing out the servo.

Admittedly I have been looking at servos....what do you guys think of this one? http://www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d770.html

I also "may" have found the steering blocks I need not sure...http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1450_42/products_id/1684/n/Team-Associated-Inline-Steering-Blocks-RC10

Traction
This is probably the very first thing I'll do but I have no clue what to get. Got to read more on this forum. Lots of good information. I sort of like "barcodes" but have no idea about rims compatibility with RC10 axle foam etc.. Still doing my homework.

Damage
The mount just came off the screw stripped out. The problem is that my ESC has a fan on it which when placed at the side of the car hits the top of the body when I try to put the body on. Makes a nice bzzzzzzzzzzzzzz when the fan speeds up too . I think I'll have to raise the body mount up some or get a new one. It never really worked great anyway though. On my car the angle of the mount is such that its very hard to get the body on at all.

Thanks,

Tim

So I've just ordered a set of JC Racing wheels. Next step is tires and I'm thinking of getting these.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_26_2338_2339_213/products_id/31289/n/JConcepts-Bar-Codes-22-Front-Buggy-Tires-Gold-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_26_2338_2339_213/products_id/31288/n/JConcepts-Bar-Codes-22-Rear-Buggy-Tires-Gold-2

Anybody see any potential issues with these tires? Amain does not provide a lot of specs and the picture of the front tires has me worried they are for 4wd not 2wd.

Any and all help advice is much appreciated.

Thanks!

those tires should be fine, are you running an indoor clay track? those tires are clay compound (gold)

Welcome to the board! I see your local track is rcexcitement, that is down the street from me. The latest layout is by far my favorite layout.

I run a Whats Old Is New Rc-10 at that track and have been very happy with the results. Most of the locals run Jconepts Blue BarCodes front and rear. I run them on both my RC-10 and B4.

Let me know next time you are at the track, if my RC-10 is finished I will try to swing by.

ED

JK Racing wrote:those tires should be fine, are you running an indoor clay track? those tires are clay compound (gold)

I run the indoor off-road track when I'm there. I believe its clay.

soniccj5 wrote:Welcome to the board! I see your local track is rcexcitement, that is down the street from me. The latest layout is by far my favorite layout.

I run a Whats Old Is New Rc-10 at that track and have been very happy with the results. Most of the locals run Jconepts Blue BarCodes front and rear. I run them on both my RC-10 and B4.

Let me know next time you are at the track, if my RC-10 is finished I will try to swing by.

ED

Hey Thanks,

Not sure when I'll get the wheels (ship from the UK) but when I get it set up I'll be back. I'll check out the difference between the blue and gold tires. They say gold are specifically for clay so I'm wondering why blue is so popular.

Tim

I don't know for sure but I leaned towards a narrower front tire and liked the results..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_26_2338_2339_213/products_id/207381/n/AKA-Racing-Rebar-22-Front-2WD-Buggy-Tires-Super-Soft-2

And tower hobbies is better at adding parts dimensions in their "Tech Notes" to the left..

These are .94": http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXBHRS&P=8

As opposed to your 1.6" wide J Concepts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWHL6&P=7

I don't know which is better though. At some point you aren't driving a buggy anymore, but a truggy.

Y'ernat Al wrote:I don't know for sure but I leaned towards a narrower front tire and liked the results..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_26_2338_2339_213/products_id/207381/n/AKA-Racing-Rebar-22-Front-2WD-Buggy-Tires-Super-Soft-2

And tower hobbies is better at adding parts dimensions in their "Tech Notes" to the left..

These are .94": http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXBHRS&P=8

As opposed to your 1.6" wide J Concepts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWHL6&P=7

I don't know which is better though. At some point you aren't driving a buggy anymore, but a truggy.

I agree with the narrow front tires, most of the guys running 2wd buggy at my track all have these wide front tires, I keep thinking they are 4wd buddies when I see them

In looking at available front buggy tires I'm finding that the widths are all over the place.

I don't really want to wait until the JC Racing wheels arrive to buy my tires but I want to make sure they will fit on the JC Racing wheels.

I've read elsewhere that sometimes when fitting new wheels on the RC10 tire width can be an issue. Anyone have advice on what clay tires work best on these particular wheels?

Fair warning, I ordered those JC racing wheels on August 23. I still don't have them 24 days later.

patience grasshopper...patience Sometimes takes awhile...other times you hear about them showing up in the states within a couple weeks. All depends on where you are an what time of year it is...

Todd