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well after careful consideration and talking with a few very informative and just generally cool peeps from this site i am taking the dive and building a dedicated old is new runner. ill update with pics as soon as i can. im waiting for the chassis and nose plate to arrive(thanks mikea96) and i just placed the order to dynotech for my front and rear arms and im purchasing the b44 cva set and rpm rc10gt rear hubs on ebay right now. as of right now i have 90% or more of the parts to complete the runner here on the table...just have to get the very few minor items such as longer axels for the front and bearings for the hubs. it will pain me to do it but my rtr b4 buggy is sadly gonna get stripped like a ferrari left in the wrong part of compton

here is the start of what i have dug out for the project...the rest is either on its way from various ebay purchases or i have yet to did out of the drawers of parts. the rear motor plate is a vintage badd boyz batteries motor plate...weird...they did mainly batteries but also did parts for rc10...i have this one and a still in package emerald green one too

pics of the donor b4 buggy...please turn away if your sensitive of carnage


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after

that's a b2/b3/t3 motor plate.

scr8p wrote:that's a b2/b3/t3 motor plate.

well crap...i guess i should have looked closer at it when i got them...didnt pay much for them...im bummed now cause i wanted to use this one on my project...oh well.

you can use it, but it won't be a simple bolt on deal......

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15870

You could ask scr8p nicely for a link to where someone had used a b3 plate on a stealth...


Oh, well what do you know.. he must have been looking while I was typing.

cool i see the link...im checking it out now and charging the dremel just in case

thanks for the link scr8p...it lets me see that i dont have to mutilate a nice piece and how to make it work. now i just have to make it happen...waiting on my chassis that i got for the project so i can get the trans bolted in and mark the holes.

GoldRush wrote:pics of the donor b4 buggy...please turn away if your sensitive of carnage


before





after

Holy carnage Batman!! He killed it!!

losiXXXman wrote:You could ask scr8p nicely for a link to where someone had used a b3 plate on a stealth...

Hey I did that!! It's a pain in the @ss if your hands shake while you drill or if you're using dull drill bits to drill the holes needed for the extra screws. It can be done though, so good luck with that. (I'm not sure how long this topic has been here so I may be a little late in saying that.)

Oh, well what do you know.. he must have been looking while I was typing.

well i know it isnt a buildup and then finished project but i finally got tired of waiting for some parts i got from a member of the site and bought another black tub and pilfered some other parts from my bins and started to build it today. im guessing ill get my other parts monday and thse will be used for another OIN buggy. as of now i would say its 80% since i have to pull it apart again to run a bit through some of the hinge pin holes on the klein arms since they are a bit under sized and i have to build and install the b44 cva's and build and install the threaded body front shocks and lastly install the slipper parts on the topshaft. other small details but other than here is what i have now.

now i get to fiddle with the slipper and diff to get it no not do wheelies when i lay the hammer down....and i have to change out the now ruied blue hardware that attaches the rear of the motor plate to the rear of the chassis....they got a little scratched the blems in the motor sticker were already there.

quit running on the street and get it dirty

To save you headaches in the very near future, don't use aluminum hardware in high stress areas like chassis mounting points and bulkheads, upper and lower shock mounts etc-

im gonna try and hit the track soon....got alot going on at the moment...got lots of buggies and trucks to drive and not alot of dirt to drive them