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On A stamp pan. On the end with the 2 threaded holes that gets attached to the chassis - why did they extend the plate so far past those threaded holes? What happened to my car is that the end of the motor mount plate hits the chassis resulting in about an 1/8" gap that has to be closed up when tightening the screws. It was too much for the threads to handle and they stripped out. It seems to me if the plate didn't extend so far past those holes there would be less interference and then make the gap smaller that has to be tightened together by the screws. Also then it wouldn't cover up as much of the 3 round end slots in the chassis which I assume are there for motor cooling?

Or maybe in my case the chassis and/or motor mount weren't bent quite exactly and that caused the gap.

Anyone else have trouble with this?

On another topic - might have already been brought up but yesterday I was browsing dremel bits at the store and saw some had a picture on the packaging of a workbench with various things on it, including a gold pan roller.

Some motorplates get hit in the rearend pushing them in a bit.Just untweak it a bit by holding it and use a crescent wrench with black tape in the jaws to keep from scratching the annoed part off.Then be less gap to screw up so tight.

As for the dremel add rc10 its not for sale that was investigated a while back lol Don

unless your dealing with pristine new out of package or out of box stuff there is always the chance that parts are bent or tweaked a little bit over the years...ive been re shaping tubs and other parts for a few years now taking what would be trash and just working it a little bit and making it fir and look like it was never bent. like thunderstruck said if you wanna protect the anodizing then run a few rounds of electrical tape or if you have a vise you can use some blocks of wood or if they have soft jaws available for your vise then get some of those...they have helped me out alot. im new to the site but i like to pass on a little knowledge when i can.