RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi,
I am collecting parts to restore my Goldpan inspired by the "what's old is new" cars on here. I have a 10T front nose plate and bulkhead, fibrelyte rpm worlds front tower, Dynotech Klien arms front and rear with B4 caster/steering blocks on front and rpm gt bearing carriers on the back.......so I am well on the way!
I need to find turnbuckles to suit this setup, can anybody tell me what lengths I need? Anybody know if there are turnbuckles from any currently produced car that I can just purchase as spare parts that will work...am guessing maybe from touring cars? Living in Ireland would probably mean ordering custom lengths from the USA so an off the shelf solution would be great.

Welcome! Our first Irish member, thank god for your whiskey 46-48mm X 4 and 40-42 mm X 2, you can order a B4 set and trim them down too-

Thanks a lot! I will post some pictures as I start to assemble

i matched up the factory team blue ti turnbuckles to the stock ce turnbuckles and they fit my WOIN perfectly.

Some pictures of a rough first assembly to see how it all fits together and what parts I am still missing

Looks good. I'm hoping to do about the same to my goldpan over the next year or so.

Looks great, you and I have similar builds with Dynotech arms and Fibre Lyte parts.

The Fibrelyte and Dynotech parts work great, Goldpan has been up and running with a while now, just need to tidy up a few bits and will post some more pictures. I am pleasantly surprised at how it handles compared to my Vega B4.1 conversion on grass although grip roll has been tough to dial out.
I have just bought a complete RC10T in great condition, given the current trend of longer buggies (22, B4.1 worlds etc) has anybody built a buggy from a 10T but keeping the longer wheelbase....if so how did it work out?

Finally a runner!

Rayzerp wrote:The Fibrelyte and Dynotech parts work great, Goldpan has been up and running with a while now, just need to tidy up a few bits and will post some more pictures. I am pleasantly surprised at how it handles compared to my Vega B4.1 conversion on grass although grip roll has been tough to dial out.
I have just bought a complete RC10T in great condition, given the current trend of longer buggies (22, B4.1 worlds etc) has anybody built a buggy from a 10T but keeping the longer wheelbase....if so how did it work out?

If your using the b4 steering knuckles like it seems in your other pics, I recommend changing them out to.the associated 6221 steering knuckles for the RC10, the b4 ones really change the steering geometry for ackerman and bump steer since they're swept back so much further in relation to the bellcrank.

I've been racing my B4.1 with a cut down t4.1 chassis (295mm total) and its killer, my RC10 is always in LWB settings in the rear, but not in the front yet (but if you go LWB in the front then you can leave the steering knuckles as is, it will cancel out the changes in geometry)

Great...thanks for that. Will the 6221 knuckles fit into the B4 carriers?

You have to ream the b4 caster block king pin hole to 1/8", and drill the b4 axle to 1/8", or use the 6220 AE axle-

I have modified the B4 knuckles to match the length of the originals for now as I dont have the 6221 parts to hand....has really improved the car.
I have a set of Big Jeepz arms that i was going to use on the next car with B4 cvd etc but will this push the car above the legal width as the arms seem a fair bit wider than the Dynotech ones?

How big is the difference in arm length from the B4 axle carrier to the original RC10 carrier? Enough to move the bellcranks back? The steering and upper link ball ends interfere with each other on my car (has losi bellcranks, tall).

They interfered on my car too at full lock....i ended up putting the outer ballstud on front of caster block to get around it....not sure if this is the best solution?