RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hello, new member here and I need some help identifying what I have gotten into I got all this from a friend who got it from a friend who got it; and so on.
Boxes say B2, Manual is for CE, Parts book is for World's, Chassis is graphite, Rear Axles are the larger with step down shoulder CVD style, but in parts I have a set of universal axles that have no shoulder step down, Some Shocks have external C clips on bottom some are internal.
LHS said they don't make parts for anything this old (but would be real happy to take it off my hands and sell me a new B4)
I did buy a set of battery cups and installed 1, but am having a very difficult time fitting the battery in, very very tight fit, is this normal? (I cut the end caps off the pack and still fits so tight I'm afraid to wedge it in there)
I am starting to think I have inherited Frankensteins monster.
I am wondering if I have something I can restore to factory condition and put on a shelf or if I should update what I can and run with it?

It's a Graphite kit, but it looks like you have some B2 and Champ parts on the table there. Definitely restorable, should you choose to accept this mission...

thats some good stuff there. definitely worth going through and cleaning up.

if you are using a 6cell stick pack, the wires coming out of the top of it can be a tight fit in the battery cup, i usually dremel away a little dip where the wires poke out.

looks like you have almost enough parts there to build the tub chassis, too.

You have a VERY EARLY 6036 RC10 Graphite Team Car. It's got the 1st generation stealth trans brace (no bumps), early 'half round' ballcups and the 'four on a side' shock tower. Clean and restore, use the other pieces to make a runner. If you got a white battery cup, do not cut it...



Here's mine, the subject of a minor restoration:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1397

nice find for sure! You also have black 5 spoke HPI rims and a very nice "Stealth Fighter" Hot Bodies body, a hard to find item... The shiny CVD's are a late production but now discontinued . As for the batteries, nowadays they are larger than back in the days and they won't fit very easily whatever mounting you use... I would personnally clean it the best I can, use the maximum stock parts you have at hand and maybe run it once or twice just to be sure everything is functionnal. Now hurry up and post some pics in the Reader's section! By the way, welcome aboard!

Don't forget to download the manual... although the Graphite manual on AE's site is for a 6 gear car. You might want to DL the Team Car manual as well as the B2 manual to help sort out your pieces parts.

def get the manuals. front arms are wide, front axles are 3/16". the rear axles with step down are 1/4". gray shocks are teflon coated team shocks. great find and great shape to. you came to the right place, the guys and gals on this forum are very knowledgeable and great to deal with.

Thank You everyone!!
Hope no one cringes when I tell you I know it runs, ripped all over the neighborhood, went thru 2 batteries and charged them once again, and in 4 runs I thought it was pretty quick, and tough. (Heres the cringe warning) Caught the driveway lip from the street and sent it cartwheeling, just popped a drive-shaft out, popped it back in and played some more. This was before I posted and found its vintage.
My question is if I can't find vintage parts to make it all original what would be period correct hop ups that were done back in the day?
And what would be the easiest way to remove old servo tape from the chassis?
After reading the archives here it seems no one has an easy way of cleaning the white parts or did i miss it? Or was dying always popular so I could just try that.

BTW, white battery cup was hacked before I got it

Moderators, Should have I posted this in readers rides? If so will u pls move it?

Servo tape is easy. Soak in WD40 for a bit, then hit it with the Goo Gone. White parts, just soak in degreaser like Krud Kutter, Spray Nine, 409, or some such and then make a batch of hot water and laundry detergent and let soak in that overnight. Best you can do.

Buy used white front and rear arms from one of the flippers if you're going back to original. Build a tub chassis car to rip around with.

Or not.

haha nice front bumper, it's the rear most part of a B2 rear chassis plate, looks like you probably have the rest of a B2 there so might be all you need to buy to make a whole B2. B3 plate will work just have to enlarge the holes in the rear arm mounts and get some 5-40 screws. B2 uses 4-40, B3 uses 5-40.

Once again thanks to everyone. I'm going to try to take it back to factory condtion. I know I need the white wide front A-arms, white servo mounts, white battery cup, and the bulkhead has been chopped up a bit, what color motor/tranny plate gold or black? And what body and rims/tires?

Turbo wrote:Once again thanks to everyone. I'm going to try to take it back to factory condtion. I know I need the white wide front A-arms, white servo mounts, white battery cup, and the bulkhead has been chopped up a bit, what color motor/tranny plate gold or black? And what body and rims/tires?

Gold motorplate and rear chassis support (if you can find one).

Viper body normally, TQ wheels (2.1 front, 2.0 rear) tires vary, but the early manual shows the 3 rib front and TQ21 rear tires (it also shows a Protech II body).

I'll look through my stuff, I might be able to come up with some of the items you need.