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Using 100w Gun with Rosin Core solder. Cleaned solder points on cells very well, but cannot get solder to stick. Am I using the wrong tools?

A quick tip is to file/sand down the solder point on the cell. Do some searches on here or look for an old RCCA, they always had guides and tips in them.

What kind of gun?

I have never had any luck soldering batteries with the ones that plug direct into the wall. Not enough power. I use a Hakko 936 now. Best RC investment I have made...

Sometimes I get some stuff that is not very accepting to solder. I use my mini wirewheel in the dremel to clean up the area well. Seems to do the trick.

Brandon G wrote:What kind of gun?

I have never had any luck soldering batteries with the ones that plug direct into the wall. Not enough power. I use a Hakko 936 now. Best RC investment I have made...

Sometimes I get some stuff that is not very accepting to solder. I use my mini wirewheel in the dremel to clean up the area well. Seems to do the trick.

Yeah, it plugs into wall. I need a good "station." I think I use one enough to justify the expense. This thing is 8-10 years old now.

A higher wattage soldering iron isn't necessarily better. I learned this the hard way, buying el-cheapo high-wattage irons costing less than $30 or so and none of them worked well. Buy a quality 40 watt unit, spend the $50 or $60 and you'll see a huge difference. Also, use 65-35 solder, not the cheaper 60-40 stuff, as it melts easier at lower temperatures. If your soldering iron's temps are too high, it won't work as well for the thin wires we use with RC cars, and will melt the silicone sheathing. Last tip is to use flux when you tin the wires, this greatly facilitates a quick melt when soldering your joints together. You want the solder joint to be formed very quickly, within 5 or so seconds of pressing the solder tip to it. If you have to keep your tip on it for longer than that, you'll cause the heat to travel up the wires and risk affecting solder joints down the line.

When soldering batteries it is important to get the heat right, and yet not hold the heat on the cells too long. I use a cheap weller station but have also had great success with the mini butane iron from radio shack and frys. At frys it goes under the isotip brand name. Works awesome and lets you get in and out of the heat quickly. I wire full size cars and use this unit in the hard to reach spots. Tiny so you can take it with you everywhere. Best part...it runs around $22

Guns always suck for some reason. The nice thing is that you can get a stick type iron for around $40 that will do the job.

Look for these things:
High wattage 60+ is better for batteries.
BIG ASS TIP- chisel type tips are better than pointy tips in this situation, max heat transfer.

and get some rosin flux, makes your life easier.

Hakko used to have the 455 and 456 stick irons, I have the bigger wattage one that DID SOME WORK, SON on batteries. The only think that put cells together faster was this huge Weller that was like 90 watts and would glow after about 20 minutes...

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49,115&PID=422&Page=1

Another tip: when you're done soldering for the day, clean off the tip, then melt a dab of solder on it for storage. This prevents the tip from oxidizing during storage and gets it ready for the next use.

Get yourself a cheap 45 watt Ungar, with a 600 degree screw in tip, has a large surface area.

Goot 35-200W (HI-Low) has been my soldering Iron since college and never did it failed me.just clean the surface of the Batt with dremel or sand paper or file and it will be as good as a prof.... Well maybe its just me but the only time i use flux was when we are soldering 215Pins of a north bridge controller (Pin type not BGA) of a notebook, after that never needed one since.

Hi
I have found that you need to use solder paste similar to the stuff plumbers use. A dab of paste on the wire and cell ends will ensure good contact and solder flow. A good solder joint is shiny and like a bead. However, solder paste is very toxic, do not breath in fumes, probably not good for you, keep away from children.. Afterwards, wipe excess paste from around joint. I use a Dremel tool with a wire brush head. Safety glasses a must to avoid flying wire.

Lots of good tips.
This iron works well for the price.
http://www.frys.com/product/249084