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Hey all,

I'm thinking of joining the newly started stadium truck class in my local club with my RC10T. What parts should I change to make it more durable/modern. To give an idea, the track will also host the 1/8th buggy/truggy/e-buggy classes so I would imagine the jumps will be bigger than normal. Currently my RC10T is stock. Here's some pictures

http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l575/evolutionyeh/RC10T/

Right off the bat and from all the researching
RPM front/rear arms
RPM rear carriers
RPM rear suspension mount 3 degree (if I can locate one)
B4/T4 top shaft
B4/T4 slipper set

I would like to use modern tires, does it mean I need to change the front spindle and I definitely need UJ, I see the MIP RC10 UJ still available but it's too short for the RC10T. What would be a good replacement? How about shocks? any modern T4 shocks should fit as well?

Thanks for the help

TenzoR wrote:Hey all,

I'm thinking of joining the newly started stadium truck class in my local club with my RC10T. What parts should I change to make it more durable/modern. To give an idea, the track will also host the 1/8th buggy/truggy/e-buggy classes so I would imagine the jumps will be bigger than normal. Currently my RC10T is stock. Here's some pictures

http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l575/evolutionyeh/RC10T/

Right off the bat and from all the researching
RPM front/rear arms
RPM rear carriers
RPM rear suspension mount 3 degree (if I can locate one)
B4/T4 top shaft
B4/T4 slipper set

I would like to use modern tires, does it mean I need to change the front spindle and I definitely need UJ, I see the MIP RC10 UJ still available but it's too short for the RC10T. What would be a good replacement? How about shocks? any modern T4 shocks should fit as well?

Thanks for the help

you could race it the way it is. the stock slipper clutch is still good on a 17.5 motor. i'm pulling wheelies on mine. but if you decide to goto a hotter motor i recommend moving up to the t4/b4 slipper setup. a lot more surface area on the pads.

the gold shocks, if they're loaded within the shocks, are good too. if you're going to be driving the truck all year grab some unob. or gold shock shafts. they last a bit longer than the chrome shafts. if it's not in the budget, grab a red scotchbrite pad. if the shafts start showing signs of wear put the shafts in a drill or dremel and give them a lite once over on the pad. they'll be good again. for pistons, shock oils, springs if you're not use to tuning off the bat ask someone else at track that has a truck dialed in. usually you'll get a plater of good tips to go along with the shock setup.

as for the suspension, just get a couple of sets of newer associated front and rear arms (#7206, 7354). get a hold of the rear suspension mounts in 0, 1.5, and 3 degrees. for the rear grab the 0 and 3 degrees hubs. and a set of 25 and 30 degree front carriers. you don't have to go crazy on the shock towers, titanium this and that, or anything else. drive the truck, find out what what tires work best at the track, tune your suspension to the track, adjust the slipper to the conditions, start with minimal camber(0 to 1degrees), and you should be good. once you get the truck rolling and find that you could improve it with better shocks, shock towers, or whatever, do it.

check that you got a good "swing" on all the arms, front steering bellcranks, and the front and rear hubs/carriers. make sure nothing is binding the ball cups.

as for running modern tires and wheels, you could use them with no problems up front. in the rear i didn't see if you had universals or stub axles. i would just get a set of mip 3/16" rc10t/gt/t2/t3 cvd's. with those you could run associated or proline velocity wheels. keep the stub axles and dog bones in your pit box. they could come in handy on a bumpier track.

you selling the truck? what happened?

littleVETTE wrote:you selling the truck? what happened?

Going to look at a more modern offroader with better tuning/parts availability. Plus this truck is far too pretty for me to ruin it.