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I know this may have been asked before, but are they the same?
If I break something at the track could I replace it with an associated part?
I'm thinking about getting one. Is there anything I should know about beforehand?
Can associated "hop ups" like threaded shocks and etc be used on it?

I don't want to get it and have it be comparable to a duratrash product.

Thanks!!!

Some of it's the same- The TT Phoenix Bx3 uses Metric hardware and bearings vs "Imperial" sizes (or S.A.E) the plastic is pretty soft and the towers and shocks are way different- some parts are 100% interchangeable though like caster blocks, toe blocks, front and rear chassis and bulkheads, I think someone said the trans case was different- the front wheels are different as are the steering knuckles.

I'm just curious that's all. If I dont find an Associated buggy relatively cheap, Ill grab one of them and give it a try.

I think the AT10 and the Phoenix are darn close...

Here's what I wrote about the AT10 a few months ago.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=24074

Paul

Thanks alot for the input, I appreciate it.
Not trying to start an argument, but I've noticed that name brand rtr's have problems too. Losi, duratrax, (some, not many) associated.
Maybe its just the way it goes, Like a car built on a monday or friday.
I will keep the shock issues and other things you have stated in mind though. Fortunately for me I have extra shocks. I dont know if they will fit the phoenix/b3. But if i get one I'll try it.

Charlie don't surf wrote: some parts are 100% interchangeable though like caster blocks, toe blocks, front and rear chassis and bulkheads.

Does that mean you could use basically the front and rear parts of the associated? Like swap over the AE front and rear bulkheads and use AE front and rear a-arms?

This is the kind of stuff I'm curious about, Some people would think I'm dumb if I did it. But I think it would be kind of neat. Kind of like a "custom" buggy.

And usually I just have to be different. At the local track, almost everyone races the losi 22 buggy. I tried one and didnt like it. Mid motor just handled weird to me. I'm used to rear motor like the RC10T and similar. I have the XXX-SCT and I hate it. Its rear motor, but it seems to me like that truck just doesnt drive right. But I'm used to the stadium trucks.

Is the slipper assembly metric or imperial (layshaft diameter)? And does it use a pin or a flat spot on the layshaft?

Okay, and is the slipper crap or not? If it's crap, don't bother answering the previous questions, just say it's crap.

EvolutionRevolution wrote: Okay, and is the slipper crap or not? If it's crap, don't bother answering the previous questions, just say it's crap.

Paul called it a perfectly functioning light switch-

I might have to get one and review it. Thank God tower hobbies has easy pay!

Charlie don't surf wrote:

EvolutionRevolution wrote: Okay, and is the slipper crap or not? If it's crap, don't bother answering the previous questions, just say it's crap.

Paul called it a perfectly functioning light switch-

Never mind then.

I've purchased a few Thunder Tiger Phoenix buggy parts for my RC10B3, both the runner/basher/racer and my blue Factory Team shelfer project. The aluminum front hub carriers, steering blocks, and rear trans/bulkhead metal brace were compatible. The rear suspension arm mounts were not compatible with the Associated rear trans mount/plate so Jake/bigjeepz milled it for me. Also the trans outdrive hubs are compatible with the stealth.

The RC10B3's are so cheap and plentiful I'd still prefer to have one of those and augment with any Thunder Tiger parts if I had to find something.

I ended up getting a B4 really cheap. The guy I got it from had a lot of money in to it. Just the carbon chassis alone was $70. The only thing I have to do to it is fix/figure out the steering. It turns fully one way, (cant remember if its right or left) but comes up a little short on the opposite side.

jayman24 wrote: Just the carbon chassis alone was $70..

mmh....

I think the guy had the tag for the chassis in the box. Ill look later.