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Couple other questions guys, i have to replace the chassis and top plate that broke and i know a lot of the parts should not be changed to aluminum bc they dont flex
which ones and why or why not would you recomend aluminum? should i get the aluminum top plate or will it be too stiff? other parts?

oh and i saw there is a part aluminum part carbon/graphite top plate would that be the better choice?

Since when is "no flex" a bad thing? I'm confused.

Anyways. I just purchased the Integy sc10 nose brace and rear upper chassis connector/brace. They look real nice and for only $4 more than the AE FT nose brace, I also got that rear piece. Nice.

iVTEC4LIFE wrote:Since when is "no flex" a bad thing? .

No flex is a bad thing sometimes. In the b4 if it doesn't flex it breaks something not as easy to replace next in line.

No flex is also a bad thing when you have a very rough track. If the car is too stiff it won't soak up the bumps making for a very unforgiving drive. Makes it dart and weave.

As far as what parts would you not want in aluminum I couldn't answer that. I don't use any extra parts like that. A front bulkhead brace might help though with the weight issues that alot of guys have. Might look better than adding lead but not as easy to 'tune'.

Thats my take anyway and I have very little actual race time with a b4.
Todd

i have a decked out alloy shelfer and i have to say a lot of the alloy bits are complete junk. one basic rule i use on a runner is if it moves or connects to a moving part then stay away from alloy. most of the alloy bits movement points fit very loose. this makes the car feel sloppy and worn out.

seeing alloy bits cost a lot more than the plastic parts that they are copied from you should keep that in mind before you start buying. lets not forget that although the alloy bits wont break they will bend. this can be a very slight bend but enough to tweak the suspension geometry.

now i personally do have alloy bits on my b4 that i will be racing. chassis, rear chassis piece.. and carbon/alloy on the front brace, rear shock tower. and titanium/carbon on the front shock tower. but i know that some of these parts and pretty much not replaceable if they break since they are now no longer made. i keep an excessive amount of stock style spares on hand just in case.

all in all though i went with the few bling alloy bits for a single reason, and that is for looks alone. they have too many disadvantages imo.

Graphite Myths -- article by Steve Husting
Graphite Myth #2
Graphite Plus Aluminum Equals Better
Experienced racers get carbon parts to lighten their electric and nitro cars and trucks. Lighter is always better.
Less weight on the car means less stress on the motor and less draw on the batteries, resulting in more "fun"
time, and less wear and tear on the electronics. Good drivers switching to lighter versions of the stock parts—
meaning carbon or graphite—can gain a competitive advantage of speed and run time over those who don’t.
Converting to all-carbon and graphite parts will save one to two ounces, depending on the kit. Therefore,
switching only suspension arms, for instance, will not result in any appreciable gains. For maximum effect,
you have to buy the whole enchilada.
Unfortunately, when new racers switch to carbon parts, they find themselves breaking parts repeatedly. So
they exchange other stock parts for aluminum ones—and wipe out any weight gains they made. Aluminum
parts are stronger, but also significantly heavier than their stock or carbon counterparts. They are a no-no
when weight savings is the goal.
If lighter weight is your goal, don’t mix carbon and aluminum.
New carbon parts will not translate into faster speed when driving skills are lacking. You’ll save money and
time by more practice than by more carbon parts. Getting carbon is far from a quick fix when purchased as a
substitute for poor driving.
A lighter vehicle will not come cheaply. Fortunately, you can upgrade piece by piece as your old parts wear or
break, and as your driving proficiency improves. Luckily, some companies, like Associated, create deluxe kit
versions (such as our Factory Team kits) with all carbon and graphite parts included, at prices frequently
saving you tons of money. Upgrade bags containing complete replacement graphite and carbon parts are
also available.
Pro: Easiest route to lighten your car is to simply substitute graphite parts.
Cons:
a. Graphite versions are more expensive than stock parts.
b. Racers must change all parts to their lighter counterpart for only a small weight advantage.
c. Car is less forgiving on impact.
Recommendation: If you want more speed and run time, lighter is better, and carbon parts are lighter
than stock plastic versions. If you are a novice, upgrade as your skills improve, for carbon is a poor substitute
for good driving practice. Resist the cool look of heavy aluminum parts if lighter is your goal.

check worlds winning cars... no alloy, only plastic/graphite...

Paul

Awesome stuff guys thanks

i think i am going to get just the front top plate and front bulkhead in aluminum that broke
any opinions on just those parts, they make the top plate in a half and half aluminum and carbon/graphite.
http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?Team-Associated-RC10B4.1-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Team%20Associated&model=RC10B4.1&id=39445&pid=1
http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?Team-Associated-RC10B4.1-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Team%20Associated&model=RC10B4.1&id=39522&pid=1
let me know if u have any opinions on just those couple things to get in alum
thanks

The article by Steve Hustings is of course perfectly written, though you can now use LiPo batteries that are so light you actually need to add weight on the chassis in order to get the proper traction. I personally always prefered soft plastic parts over reinforced ones as they are more forgiving and less prone to breaking. I would avoid any aluminium part that is in contact with another moving metal element, be it ball bearings, hinge pins... They tend to wear really fastster than a plastic/metal contact. Just my 0,2 eurocents. Cheers!

Stay away from the aluminium! As others have said it tends to bend which changes the handling.
I did have the parts you linked to but changed back after the chassis cracked - which I'm sure was down to the parts making it too stiff.
Personally my B4.1 doesn't run any alloy apart from the front wishbone brace (although I do have a stainless steel front bulkhead to add weight as a tuning aid)

The associated factory team rear hubs and front bulkhead are solid pieces. The avid steering bellcranks are nice too.

Watch out for some of the off brand aluminum. Some of it is really soft. And whatever you do, don't put aluminum arms on an off road buggy.

great info guys thanks
i def will keep the alum parts to a minimum
the piece they call the "top plate"(looks like a wishbone) is what shattered on me and it is not conected to any moving part
should i get the alum or graphite on that one or stick with the plastic
seems like it would be sturdier but maybe stress other parts?

Just ordered 2 Avid b4 bellcranks for the WC kit CANT WAIT!

86NESKid wrote:great info guys thanks
i def will keep the alum parts to a minimum
the piece they call the "top plate"(looks like a wishbone) is what shattered on me and it is not conected to any moving part
should i get the alum or graphite on that one or stick with the plastic
seems like it would be sturdier but maybe stress other parts?

The part in the front or rear? Either of those should be OK in aluminum, but not necessary. If you get the rear, the one from STRC is lower profile and can be used with the rear "C" (carbon) aluminum hub parts for the correct geometry. If you use it with the plastic hub, or the plastic upper to the aluminum hub, you will need to put the right amount of spacers back in it. Other manufacturers make them with the stock geometry and can be spaced the same as the stock part. A lot of the team setups call for carbon in either the front or rear upper chassis braces, so those would work well too.