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I have about 3 projects in the works and really need to get further along with at least one of the, but figured I'd share the mock-up of parts so far for this modern goldpan buggy build. My first build went pretty well, but was a bit too nice to drive in my opinion so I sold it to askbob and he recently decided the same thing, too nice to hurt it! http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=21293 I also decided that I'd prefer to have the wide Klein front arm setup the 2nd time around, and play with a few other ...... things.

This is the progress so far, owed mostly to the heroic efforts of Jake (bigjeepz). The biggest knock I had on the old is new builds with 10T nose plates is that the nose brace tubes don't go through to the front of the plate, which bugs me for some strange reason. Since I am using yet another set of Jake's titanium front nose tubes for this, I asked Jake what he thought about modifying a buggy nose plate to use the Klein arms and have the nose tubes pass through. He accepted the challenge and I am only sorry that I didn't send him a better quality nose piece to try it on, since this one is tweaked to the left. He really did some innovative cutting to get me something that will work well, and some hacking with my dremel to the 10T front bulkhead, and here we are. Jake also milled the chassis and motor plate.

A&L chassis stiffeners and steering bellcranks are part of the build and the trans uses a black delrin case from 300SD who was making these for a while last year (wish he'd come back and offer more!). Also a B4 slipper.

Most parts are for test fitting purposes only since I don't have the right king pins yet and will do some different shock tower material, as well as dye the ugly red bulkhead. I also need to purchase the usual assortment of Old-is-New build goodies like B44 rear CVD's, B4 front hub carriers and steering knuckles, etc. Once further along I'll get the whole rig anodized a new color I think.

Very cool creation on the front, Jake is awesome

I have always liked those A-arms. Do you think they would accept dye well?

railey72 wrote:I have always liked those A-arms. Do you think they would accept dye well?

Hey Doug, where ya been? Good to see you around!

Yes, I dyed the last set on my other build black with RIT dye and there were no issues whatsoever. I'll probably do the same for this build at some point.

Hi Adam, Thanks for the info on the arms. I have been thinking about picking up a set of these for a project.

Trying to get back on the board more often. Been a really busy fall and winter so far which is usually when I have the most time to build. Hoping the rest of the winter slows down as I have some projects that I am pretty psyched about. Looks like you've been working on some cool stuff!!

Some subtle updates, but still a lot of work to go. I ordered up the Fibre Lyte parts I wanted for this build and mounted them and started experimenting with the silver recessed washers. I have a lot of other parts, but I have to reset things a bit after last night's shock building fiasco.

The new fiber parts look great, this thing will be killer when complete

It's been half a year, time for an update! Thanks to 300SD for being extremely patient while we tried to ship a set of replacement pins for his delrin trans case to me because I stupidly lost the original set. Wow, we were about to try passenger pigeon or a personal courier to try to get these pins to arrive at my house!

Anyway, besides that debacle, I also had the shock building disaster so I went with Kyosho velvets. They are soooo smooth and well built, wow. And stupid expensive.

So here she is. As I said it has a black delrin case from 300SD, which I was fortunate enough to buy before production ceased. B4 front carriers and steering knuckles with Lunsford titanium front axles.

Here are the issues the way it sits now. In the rear I'm using B44 universals but on the right side, it's bottoming out in the trans outdrive when the suspension compresses. The ride height between the front and rear seems funky, not sure if I should try different shock mount locations. The front geometry seems to be generating a lot of bump steer based on the toe out under suspension compression. And finally, sheesh the Losi rear hubs are hitting the JConcepts Relux rear wheels because of the offset.

Looking killer! Maybe the Losi hubs are also causing the bone binding in the outdrive? Have any regular 10T hubs to try?

I have a set of Jakes/bigjeepz arms front and rear, so maybe I will try the rear ones and see if that extra length helps here.

on the back, move the hinge pin to the lower hole on the hub carrier. that should take care of the outdrive issue. then, add a pair of cw wheels spacers. that will stop the rub on the hub carrier (or just cut that ear off of the hub), but it'll also give you clearance at the front side of the arm by the outer shock mount hole.

oh, then lose the 10t rear tower. sorry, it's my biggest pet peeve on these cars next to the 10t front tower.

why does your front inner ball cup look to sit so far away from the shock tower?

scr8p wrote:on the back, move the hinge pin to the lower hole on the hub carrier. that should take care of the outdrive issue. then, add a pair of cw wheels spacers. that will stop the rub on the hub carrier (or just cut that ear off of the hub), but it'll also give you clearance at the front side of the arm by the outer shock mount hole.

oh, then lose the 10t rear tower. sorry, it's my biggest pet peeve on these cars next to the 10t front tower.

why does your front inner ball cup look to sit so far away from the shock tower?

Thanks, will try the rear hub carrier change. I have the blue B4 rear spacers (just can't see them with wheels mounted). Lol on the rear tower, I thought the front tower was the only one you had a pet peeve about.

I have a plastic spacer on the front ball joints because I didn't think they would fit without rubbing the nose tubes, but I might be able to get it to work without. You think that might be causing the bump steer?

I have your novak package packed and ready to go, hopefully will hit the post office tomorrow.

you use the cw spacers along with the b4 spacer.
as for the front, i don't think it really matters, it just looked funny to me. i would say yuou need to shorten the camber link and use the inner most hole on the castor block. is there a lower hole on the shock tower you can drop down to? some have 2 that's why i ask.

you may have to raise the entire steering bellcrank too, or atleast raise the inner steering ball studs with some washers.

I remember doing my first OBN RC10 with the 10T towers, and up you are on the right track with replacing the front one. I used the same front tower and also replaced my rear tower to a RC10 one. Glad to see you are working out the bugs. Just wondering.....did you dye that rear bulkhead yet? Don't be posting more pics with that ugly thing, lol.

vintage AE wrote:Just wondering.....did you dye that rear bulkhead yet? Don't be posting more pics with that ugly thing, lol.

I kinda like that! For some reason it draws my interest in this particular build. The whole thing kinda looks great. I think maybe because all of your other builds matched so well. I kinda like the quilted look of this one so far (even though you probably plan on pulling it all together once you have the right parts ).