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I wasn't sure to post this in the Kyosho or Losi section, so I decided to post it here. I picked up some Sees wheels for a Losi JRX-2 - Model 3015 - and they would make a match (at least externally) to a set of Kyosho Sees wheels I picked up a while back...except for the weird pin mount I see on the inside. I can't think of how to adapt these to fit either a Kyosho tapered or crosspin-and-hex axle, and a good amount of time searching for adapters didn't show me anything that looked like it would work.

I don't want to drill a tapered hole and unless an axle's crosspins were welded or fixed somehow, I don't see how the typical crosspin-through-2mm-hole system would work with these wheels, either.

Anyone have any ideas or has done this? Or better yet, you have something similar for a Kyosho and a trade could be in the works.

Here's what the insides look like (taken from some eBay user's auction):

IF you are usind the newer Kyosho CVD's, than I think you can just purchase the "Proline axle" sets for their CVD's. They have a 5mm bearing dia. for the hub, and then they are turned down to 3/16" and drilled for a cross pin for the wheel mounting. This will allow you to mount Losi or AE wheels to your car. -Jeff

Jay Dub wrote:IF you are usind the newer Kyosho CVD's, than I think you can just purchase the "Proline axle" sets for their CVD's. They have a 5mm bearing dia. for the hub, and then they are turned down to 3/16" and drilled for a cross pin for the wheel mounting. This will allow you to mount Losi or AE wheels to your car. -Jeff

Thanks, I'll check that out...what holds the crosspins in place, though? The wheel inners don't have the crosspin notches recessed or cupped or anything, other than friction I don't see what would keep a crosspin from falling out.

yes, just friction. The pins are a snug fit in the cross-hole, and then tightening pre-loads the pin against the wheel.

I would envision something like the customworks/Kranzels spacers that have basically a raised cross section that acts as a pin, with a taper fitting to match the axle, as long as the offsets all work out.

this thread, page 12, almost halfway down the page, Scr8p has a picture with kinda what I'm thinking, just a taper on the back side.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5483&hilit=klien&start=165

If this aluminum spacer has notches for crosspins on the inner surface, it would be perfect. Does such a part exist? That topic doesn't seem to show specific part info for this item...

it's notched on the inside for a pin. using them you'll gain an 1/8" per side, though. might be more than you'd want.

i really wouldn't worry about losing the pin, though. as long as it's remotely tight in the axle, once the wheel is tight, it won't come out. for years, the yoke wheel adapters i ran on the back of my rc10, the pin was not enclosed by hub. i ran my axle pins super loose because i got tired of prying tham out all of the time. i never lost a single pin.

scr8p wrote:it's notched on the inside for a pin. using them you'll gain an 1/8" per side, though. might be more than you'd want.

i really wouldn't worry about losing the pin, though. as long as it's remotely tight in the axle, once the wheel is tight, it won't come out. for years, the yoke wheel adapters i ran on the back of my rc10, the pin was not enclosed by hub. i ran my axle pins super loose because i got tired of prying tham out all of the time. i never lost a single pin.

Heh, I also posted a similar question in your RC10 topic, scr8p. I think I'm fine with the width because Kyosho uses crosspin-notched 12mm hexes from 4 to 6mm wide. I'd love to know what part # this is, and who makes it. It's almost exactly what I'm looking for.

http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=23100

couple of thickness available.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTA0&P=SM

you'll also have to check that your axles will be long enough using these too. losi axles are pretty long, so the hole in the rim for the axle might be too deep for the kyosho axles. adding the spacer might be too much. using them on an rc10 axles you have to use a low profile locknut.

Thanks guys, and good point about the rim width due to the inner stand-off part, scr8p. I'll have to break out the calipers tonight.

I'd rather go this route than changing axles or making hybrid axles, because I'd prefer not to be changing axles if I wanted to simply change wheels.

You're still going to need stub axles with a hole for a cross pin if you want to use those wheels. Unless I'm missing something...

adam lancia wrote:You're still going to need stub axles with a hole for a cross pin if you want to use those wheels. Unless I'm missing something...

The Kyosho Lazer CVDs are already drilled for crosspins. This pic shows hexes approximately 4 & 6mm thick:

DOH! Of course I'm gonna put that down to jet lag and it being late last night...