RC Car Plastics
Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:04 pm
Because of my day job, I'm very familiar with dozens of different polymers/plastics (I design plastic parts that are molded, extruded or machined). So, I thought it might be a good idea to start a thread that discusses what types of plastics were typically used in vintage RC car construction. Modern cars also use many of these plastics, but they also use many more exotic polymers and polymer blends that were not available 25 years ago. So for now, let's focus on vintage cars. So here's a list (in no particular order) and where the plastic was used:
-- Nylon: RC10 parts (nylon 6/6), Kyosho parts (glass filled), gears, wheels, etc.
-- ABS: Tamiya black parts such as chassis, suspension arms, early bushings, etc.
-- Delrin (acetal): gears, later plastic bushings, servo savers, shock pistons
-- Polystyrene: Tamiya hard bodies
-- Acrylic: Tamiya windshields, side glass, etc.
-- Lexan (polycarbonate): bodies, wings
-- PVC: flexible parts such as bumpers (for example, Kydex is PVC blended with acrylic)
-- Polyethylene: flexible parts such as bumpers
-- Polypropylene: color impregnated RTR bodies
-- Polyester: bodies and gear covers (as PETG or PET)
When it comes to maintaining and restoring vintage cars, I think that knowledge of how plastics age and how they can be cleaned is important. Some examples:
1. Nylon 6/6 embrittles with age as its moisture content drops (drys out) and it yellows from environmental and UV exposure. As we know, old parts can be boiled to increase their flexibility and treated with a hydrogen peroxide + UV bath to whiten them again.
2. ABS also embrittles with age, but unfortunately there's not much that can be done about it. Boiling ABS will distort it.
3. Sodium hydroxide (i.e. lye, like in oven cleaner, castrol super clean, etc.) can be used to strip paint from polystyrene, but it's not really all that good for nylon.
4. Acetone can be used to clean and remove glue from nylon parts such as wheels.
5. Nitromethane, brake fluid and de-natured alcohol can be used to strip paint from polycarbonate, but it will likely leave a haze.
Please feel free to add to this! Or, post any questions. Myself or someone else may be able to answer it.
-- Nylon: RC10 parts (nylon 6/6), Kyosho parts (glass filled), gears, wheels, etc.
-- ABS: Tamiya black parts such as chassis, suspension arms, early bushings, etc.
-- Delrin (acetal): gears, later plastic bushings, servo savers, shock pistons
-- Polystyrene: Tamiya hard bodies
-- Acrylic: Tamiya windshields, side glass, etc.
-- Lexan (polycarbonate): bodies, wings
-- PVC: flexible parts such as bumpers (for example, Kydex is PVC blended with acrylic)
-- Polyethylene: flexible parts such as bumpers
-- Polypropylene: color impregnated RTR bodies
-- Polyester: bodies and gear covers (as PETG or PET)
When it comes to maintaining and restoring vintage cars, I think that knowledge of how plastics age and how they can be cleaned is important. Some examples:
1. Nylon 6/6 embrittles with age as its moisture content drops (drys out) and it yellows from environmental and UV exposure. As we know, old parts can be boiled to increase their flexibility and treated with a hydrogen peroxide + UV bath to whiten them again.
2. ABS also embrittles with age, but unfortunately there's not much that can be done about it. Boiling ABS will distort it.
3. Sodium hydroxide (i.e. lye, like in oven cleaner, castrol super clean, etc.) can be used to strip paint from polystyrene, but it's not really all that good for nylon.
4. Acetone can be used to clean and remove glue from nylon parts such as wheels.
5. Nitromethane, brake fluid and de-natured alcohol can be used to strip paint from polycarbonate, but it will likely leave a haze.
Please feel free to add to this! Or, post any questions. Myself or someone else may be able to answer it.