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it seems that the MIP 4n1 clutch is discotinued at Tower Hobbies. i was looking to replace the stock clutch on my GT. will the spring loaded GT2 clutch work in a GT?

i would like to reuse as many parts from the original GT clutch as possible.

it looks as if all i would need are following:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001981426&I=LXBMD5&P=K
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001981426&I=LXBMD4&P=K
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001981426&I=LXBMD8&P=K
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001981426&I=LXNYY4&P=K

the original parts i would like to reuse are the flywheel, clutchbell and bearings.

would this setup function correctly?

with slight modification yes it can be done there is still parts being made for the gt rrp still makes the gears for it so dont worry about it will cost less money just to keep your clutch in shape instead of buying the gt2 clutch

gt2 clutch is straight swap, i put all associated gt2 clutch parts on my gt1 but switched as i didnt like the grab, rc8 shoes should fit the stock gt2 flywheel... you have to pay attention to engine spacing, space the engine so the bell doesnt ride on the inside of the spur gear, either shim the slipper top shaft, slot the chassis, or drill and tap holes in the engine mount... its a little bit of work but the pay off is tons more gear options and no more blown up bearings...

i switched to an intergy tmaxx aluminum 3 shoe setup using the gt2 nut (the one for a short shaft engine) the gt2 uses metric bearings and the clutch nut reflects this... and opens up a whole world of clutch bells...

seems im revisiting this question.

Now im wondering if there's ANY available aftermarket clutches for the GT. Seems the gt2 clutch will not fit without some modifications that im not too keen on doing. I'm sure there must have been aftermarket clutches available back in the day that were more durable than the stock clutch. Im constantly blowing out bearings and the clutch nut seems to gradually dig into the flywheel no matter how much I tighten it down and the e-clip just disappears from time to time. I would just like something that's more durable and reliable.

Im constantly blowing out bearings and the clutch nut seems to gradually dig into the flywheel no matter how much I tighten it down and the e-clip just disappears from time to time. I would just like something that's more durable and reliable.

Sounds to me like you're either shimmed incorrectly or way too tight on spur engagement. Though smaller than 5x10mm bearings, the 3/16" x 5/16" bearings in the standard GT clutch last plenty long if the clutch is set up properly. Also nothing wrong with the factory shoes, again, if you're set up is right.

Before you go spending time and money on a conversion, make sure you haven't made things too tight. Preloading or over tight spur engagement will trash a 5mm x10mm bearing just as fast as a 3/16" x 5/16" (4.7mm x 8mm)) bearings.

If you were installing an SG shaft engine, then the conversion makes sense, as a GT clutch won't work on SG shaft. Otherwise, I see no reason.

its a little bit of work but the pay off is tons more gear options

GT bells come in 13T-22T; how many options do you need?

what I meant to say was that the CLUTCH NUT seems to gradually dig into the flywheel. no matter how tight I keep it or if it use thread lock.

Sixtysixdeuce wrote:

Im constantly blowing out bearings and the clutch nut seems to gradually dig into the flywheel no matter how much I tighten it down and the e-clip just disappears from time to time. I would just like something that's more durable and reliable.

Sounds to me like you're either shimmed incorrectly or way too tight on spur engagement. Though smaller than 5x10mm bearings, the 3/16" x 5/16" bearings in the standard GT clutch last plenty long if the clutch is set up properly. Also nothing wrong with the factory shoes, again, if you're set up is right.

Before you go spending time and money on a conversion, make sure you haven't made things too tight. Preloading or over tight spur engagement will trash a 5mm x10mm bearing just as fast as a 3/16" x 5/16" (4.7mm x 8mm)) bearings.

If you were installing an SG shaft engine, then the conversion makes sense, as a GT clutch won't work on SG shaft. Otherwise, I see no reason.

its a little bit of work but the pay off is tons more gear options

GT bells come in 13T-22T; how many options do you need?

+1

Except that I would disagree about the clutch shoes, the MIP clutch is much better than the stock clutch. Mainly because of the spring, not so much the shoes itself.

As for gearing, yeah, 13-22 clutchbells and 50-66 on the spur gear, in 32 pitch, so unless 20mph is too fast and 70mph is too slow, you're good!

what I meant to say was that the CLUTCH NUT seems to gradually dig into the flywheel. no matter how tight I keep it or if it use thread lock.

The RC10GT uses a short collet, and it's meant to be shimmed at the rear. One of three possibilites:

-You are missing the collet shim/spacer, thus the flywheel is unable to fully seat on the collet.

-Your collet or flywheel is worn, thus the flywheel is unable to fully seat on the collet.

-Too much thread left on the crankshaft, not allowing the adapter to fully tighten on the flywheel, thus the flywheel is unable to fully seat on the collet.

See the pattern there?

Except that I would disagree about the clutch shoes, the MIP clutch is much better than the stock clutch.

Oh, it's definitely better. I've just never really had trouble with the stock shoes. Yes, they contact the clutch bell regardless of RPM, but unless you spend a lot of time at idling, that really shouldn't be a problem. Only thing is that the shoes, being designed to ride the bell, are not as "sticky". The MIP clutch provides a bit more positive engagement.

Rootdown4594 wrote:what I meant to say was that the CLUTCH NUT seems to gradually dig into the flywheel. no matter how tight I keep it or if it use thread lock.

It's normal for the clutch nut to chew up the flywheel a little when tighten it down, since it doesn't use a washer, but it sounds like you are not getting the flywheel tight. You need to either shim the flywheel or trim down the engine shaft. Keep in mind gear mesh. If you need the clutchbell to be closer to the spur you need to add shims. If need more clearance you need to trim the engine shaft.

Sixtysixdeuce wrote:

Except that I would disagree about the clutch shoes, the MIP clutch is much better than the stock clutch.

Oh, it's definitely better. I've just never really had trouble with the stock shoes. Yes, they contact the clutch bell regardless of RPM, but unless you spend a lot of time at idling, that really shouldn't be a problem. Only thing is that the shoes, being designed to ride the bell, are not as "sticky". The MIP clutch provides a bit more positive engagement.

Agreed.

Fwiw, the gt clutch did originally come with a spring. I believe they quit using it because of the way it rubbed on the clutchbel.

it seems that the clutch nut over tightens on its own during use and digs into the flywheel. I'll notice that the clutch bell will be binding by rubbing up against the flywheel because the clutch nut has dug into the flywheel bringing the bell closer in. This also binds up the bearings and they blow out as well. The OS engine that I have was specifically made for the GT with the supposedly proper length shaft.

if I could just stop the clutch nut from over tightening on its own I would be golden. I've tried putting a washer behind it but it messes with the clearances. the clutch bell will rub on the spur. thin shims just get eaten up just like the flywheel.

Hmmm... something weird going on there. Hard to say what it is without seeing it, but the clutch nut should not move once it's installed. I don't see how it could possibly tighten itself. If the flywheel is that chewed up then I'd say it's time for a new one. Can you post some pics?

it seems that the clutch nut over tightens on its own during use and digs into the flywheel. I'll notice that the clutch bell will be binding by rubbing up against the flywheel because the clutch nut has dug into the flywheel bringing the bell closer in. This also binds up the bearings and they blow out as well. The OS engine that I have was specifically made for the GT with the supposedly proper length shaft.

First, I can't say I've ever seen an OS engine that didn't need the shaft cut for a 10GT.

Moreover, I stand by my original assessment. For one of those three reasons, your flywheel is not properly tightening on the collet, allowing the shaft to spin independently of the flywheel, causing all of your problems.

Start over. New flywheel, collet and shims, and set it up right. Going to a different style of flywheel & clutch will not mitigate problems due to improper set up.

I'm sorry if this seems a little bit abrasive, but it feels as though you are not listening to those of us telling you whats wrong and how to correct it.

not abrasive at all. just trying to get as much information about the problem out there and get as many different responses as possible.

the engine:

http://www.osengines.com/engines-car/osmg2105/index.html

clearly designed with a GT in mind.

will definitely replace the whole clutch assembly. I just don't like the overall stock design and especially the e-clip. I've seen simpler designs with less parts and a screw or bolt holding the bell on rather than an e-clip. but I guess that would require a normal shaft on the engine.

You can use a retaining ring or a c clip if it makes you feel better but honestly I have never had a e clip bounce off, that is strange. A c clip would be my choice tho, and you can find them likely at your local hardware store. If not McMaster Carr for sure. There were gt series engines with a cut crank from OS for sure. I sold plenty of em!

I think you will be happy with a new stock clutch, but is still try to find a mip clutch. Those were the first upgrade I would always recommend, they were awesome!