RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi All,

Just wanted to introduce myself. I have been looking into getting my 5 year old son into RC since i enjoyed the hobby so much when i was a kid. During my research i
became more excited to get back into the hobby myself. I was going to pick up a RTR kit for myself when i stumbled across this site and saw all the great work you guys
have done.

Well just so happens that my second RC (the first that i build myself) is a RC10T. I think i am like a lot of you on here (maybe just a bit late coming back into the game) Just
so happens that i still have my 10T in the basement so i figured I might as well give restoration a shot.

I have been doing a lot of reading on this site over the last few days to get tips on doing the restore. I am not 100 percent sure on my goal with this restore but i do know i want to drive the truck and hopefully have some great bashing and racing sessions with my son once he has an RC.

Feel free to throw out any tips you wish you had known when you started your first build and I hope to post pics throughout my build to the site and look forward to getting lots of help since i am pretty rusty with this stuff. Also feel free to suggest a path for me to take with this restore? I think i want to keep it mostly original but then part of me wants to go brushless which from my reading would indicate some upgrades would be needed.

I have attached some pics for your viewing pleasure


front by fatboycarneyyounger, on Flickr


overhead by fatboycarneyyounger, on Flickr


rear by fatboycarneyyounger, on Flickr


chasisunderside by fatboycarneyyounger, on Flickr


Cheers
Mike

Looks real good actually! Replace a lot of the rusty hardware which is fairly easy and inexpensive and you're mostly ready to go. I'd just tear it down and give it a good dusting. Probably replace the oil in the shocks and check for leaks. The o-rings tend to dry rot and leak. The tires don't look too bad if they haven't dried up too. Your 10T looks better than mine! Welcome.

P.S. Let's have a closer look at that motor. Looks interesting.

Welcome! I would save the money and just clean the rust off and keep them oiled so they don't rust again!

Nice start you have! Try to find RPM rear suspension mounts, a cheap 10.5 brushless combo, 2 lipo batteries and a lipo charger. With these you will have one sweet runner!

Thanks for the feedback so far guys. I will work on getting the motor out so you can take a closer look. I honestly have no idea what it is??

Slotcarrod what is the reason for the RPM rear suspension mounts? Are rear mounts subject to breaking? Just curious as I had not seen this mentioned in my reading thus far

Thanks
Mike

The longer arms of the trucks are more prone to wrenching the ARM mounts into oblivion. The t2 3 deg ones are also way stronger-

Slot machine 2 for the motor I believe?

Welcome Mike,
Looks like a good base, actually looks to be in the same good shape my runner was when I got it off ebay months ago. I wouldn't got with a 10T body unless you are planning on never rolling it over. A T2 body is way more durable, so I've been told, lol.
Anthony

Ok guys my son and I pulled the motor off today and its a Ruby 16T Triple. I believe this is a Trinity motor.


Couple questions before I plan this build out.

Will the T2 Body fit on this truck? I had the body and it was never painted but I cant seem to find it. May have to check with my parents.

2nd question. Where can I get the RPM rear suspension mounts?

In reading a number of other threads there is a lot of talk about the CVD and 3/16 vs 1/4 axles. Can someone give me the coles notes on this? I also saw RPM has carriers that are designed to hold a better bearing? Is this something I should be looking at?

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/hires/7023.htm

Thanks guys I am sure I will have a lot of questions and I am trying to find the answers before I post so apologies in advance if I repost a question

Mike

Rod has a T2 body on his 10T runner. I'm not sure if he did anything special to fit it, but I will find out as soon as I get one myself.

T2 body fits perfect!

RPM inner 1.5 or 3 degree mounts are only what is needed! (NO RPM HUBS!) You have to luck out and find them on eBay!

These are the CVD's, bearings and body! You must use these bearings with the CVD's!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3277&P=7 CVD kit

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD088&P=7 3/16 X 3/8 Bearings (need 4)

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6132/ T2 Body

Thanks a lot Rod. One question though as these CVD's indicate they are for 3/16" rear axle but I have read there is a 1/4" rear axle as well. How do I know what mine is?

Also wanted to say I read through both of your 10T builds and all I have to say is WOW!! Simply amazing work. I will be using those throughout my build as reference (not that I will come anywhere near those)

Thanks

You have a 1/4" but you want to switch to 3/16. That is why you need bearings! The 3/16 last much, much longer!

Duh, Gotcha thanks Rod sorry for the newbie questions its been a while

Ok guys Im back again i have been searching around about tires and I think I even confused myself I have read that the standard 2.2 tires cant go on the wheels I have but then looking at Rods build (black and orange - which looks amazing by the way) you used the original rims and put 2.2 tires on them?

what do you guys recommend? do you have a site that explains all this? i will be going with the cvd's mentioned above, does that add anything to the mix on what i can use or even should use for tire/wheel combos?

thanks
Mike

The trouble with the current 2.2 offerings is they are so soft that the 3 piece rims can't clamp down on them. But, the t rim offset has never changed from the 10t to the t4.1, so you can just use t4 rims-

This is the problem that happens when you use a 3 piece wheel with modern soft rubber! It just pops off the bead lock after a while!



To solve this... simply use CA glue! Or modern T4 wheels! Oh... you have to glue those as well!