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I have a 1984 rc10 gold pan. Io isn't in very good condition so I plan on running it instead of restoring it. The first time I assembled it, I used 3/16" cvd joints from my rc10b2. Then 2 minutes into running the car, they broke because they were apparently at too sharp of an angle. A few days ago, I purchased 1/4" cvd joints off eBay. I installed them in the car (after swapping the rear hub carrier and bearings) and they broke in a crash with my garage. I did not see much of an improvement from the stock cvd joints to these "upgrade" cvd joints. So what I'm asking is this: What type of cvs should I use? Should I use the stock cvd joints off of the rc10b2 or should I use the MIP upgrade cvd joints? Which would be more durable, 1/4" or 3/16"? And I guess while we're on the topic of axles, would dog bones be better/more durable? I can remember driving my fully modified rc10 graphite around with dogbones, And never once did I have an axle break. The only thing that ever broke with the dog bone arrangement was the cups that kept cracking if I ever hit anything too hard. Any help would be appreciated.

sounds like a suspension setup problem if your breaking cvds.

scr8p wrote:sounds like a suspension setup problem if your breaking cvds.

yup, probably need to put travel limiters in the rear dampers

What about just moving the shocks out? I'm using Andy's rear arms and the original shocks, so what hole do you recommend? I broke the first set of cvd joints while using the innermost hole of the arm.The cvds in place at that time were associated's 3/16" cvds. I nroke the second one in a side crash with the cement lip of my garage (The car spun out and hit the garage and the cvd snapped like a toothpick.)(Also, the second set of cvds were mip 4/4" cvd joints) When that one broke, I was using the outermost hole of the arm. (the arms only have 3 holes in them) I was told that the first cvd broke because the shocks were pushing it too far down and it was hitting on itself and cracking. Then when the second cvd broke, i was told that when the shock fully compressed, it pushed the cvd to the point where it once again was hitting on itself and it cracked.

Is any of this correct?

do yourself a favor and check out the rc10 manual. This will show you the proper amount of shock (internal) limiters and the default location of the shock position(s).

http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10/

there are several manuals to choose from, they will show both dogbone and cvd/universal applications, as well as the correct limiters based on which shock shaft you have (early cars had 1.32" shafts, later ones used 1.02" shafts). There are also shims that may or may not be necessary...

there has been a strange number of 'broken' cvd threads I've noticed. wondering if it's just a problem with a used incorrectly assembled car or if there is something up with the cvd's you can buy now... the cvd's definitely are not as robust as dogbones with respect to operating angle, so if the suspension droops too far, I would expect problems.

I just bought and installed brand new dogbones/cups and installed them on the car. I moved the shocks the the center hole of the arms, and shock/axle travel seems ok. The only thing I noticed about the dogbones though is that they seem rather thin. I don't know if this is a problem or not because I used to run my RC10 graphite with dogbones and I never had a problem. I'll try to upload some pics in a bit.