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I originally picked up a graphite buggy to make a runner then lost interest over time. In between I picked up these two other buggies. I need to pick a runner from these three and get rid of the rest. I've saved these parts from the sell pile so which ever buggy I pick will get some of these goodies

Parts


graphite has a 6 gear tranny with thorp 48 pitch gears and extra bearings on the outdrives.


RC10CE has tecnacraft titanium turnbuckles, an MIP tranny and an A&L steering setup


Worlds is just a worlds with a stealth tranny.


I was all set with the graphite and then read where some have said the aluminum pan handled better. Which would be best suited for a runner? Of course I could scab parts between the three.

The tubs are way better as a racer/runner as the super stiff carbon cars are not very forgiving, granted If you are masami and can handle a knife edge car then your ok. I see an icon for a worlds car, this was the best overall development of the RC10 due to weight reduction, and added/eliminated flex in key places, and added geometry advances in steering and camber and rollcenters.

Back in the day I raced with a graphite chassis. Today I run the tub. Either can work well. I find it funny that many people complain the the graphite chassis weren't stiff enough compared to the tubs. Today many people complain that modern chassis are too stiff and unforgiving. It's all about liking what you aren't using. There are merits to each but what is important is what you like and can make work best. Out of your choices I'd run the world's car with the A&L steering installed but they could all do quite well.

Worlds tub with the MIP trans, I've never seen one like that before. Then the CC battery spine to top it off.

fredswain wrote:Back in the day I raced with a graphite chassis. Today I run the tub. Either can work well. I find it funny that many people complain the the graphite chassis weren't stiff enough compared to the tubs. Today many people complain that modern chassis are too stiff and unforgiving. It's all about liking what you aren't using. There are merits to each but what is important is what you like and can make work best. Out of your choices I'd run the world's car with the A&L steering installed but they could all do quite well.

The Graphite chassis is actually stiffer than a tub and less forgiving. And that is also what Charlie described...

Neither is very stiff. Personally I'd use a slab of granite as a chassis if I could! The stiffer the better. When the graphite chassis came out, the whole point of using one was to reduce weight. It was far more important then since we didn't have power for very long. Every ounce saved was a help to run time and often your gearing was chosen based on what would get you through a race before the battery died.

fredswain wrote:Neither is very stiff.

What?

I'm not trying to be rude, but you have to be kidding- the carbon 3mm quasi graphite ( not carbon fiber ) chassis has less than .05mm deflection per 150 lb at the center on that 11" chassis.

Have you actually just picked both up and twisted them by hand? When I say that I mean a fully built car with each. You can flex them quite a bit front to back. You can twist them both too. The aluminum tub is fairly weak in the bulkhead area and is where most of it's flex problems are with that chassis. Now go try to bend a composite chassis car. It doesn't even have to be a modern one. The JRX-Pro SE is a good one. Good luck getting it to move at all. It's thanks to the design. My CR2's graphite chassis which has built up sides is extremely rigid. By comparison to practically anything else out there today, neither RC10 chassis is very stiff. I don't need to do polar moment calculations on paper to tell me what I already know I can and can't bend by hand.

my trx1 chassis, the original traxxas product, is UNBELIEVABLY rigid its actually sick, its graphite i guess, this thing flexes 0 and stiff as hell front to back.. i like stiff cars personally, i think they are easier to tune personally. but different tracks it may be beneficial to have more "slop" in the chassis, especially something with sharp turns etc.

If my memory serves, the TQ10 chassis is crazy stiff compared to the graphite isn't it?

As for a runner Sho, I'd go with the goldie. You just can't beat a classic!

Says the guy who doesn't own one!

My vote is for the worlds. Pick a few pieces and just run it. The CE would be a close 2nd choice. I like the CF but the few runners I've run tend to break more things than like to...maybe due to the stiffness mentioned above.

One main concern is I don't see any tecnacraft wheels for your runner

Todd

Worlds with the stealth. You will spend less time dicking with the tranny and actually running it.

I noticed something funny with my Vonats RC10. The screws in the front support tubes, tranny brace screws, rear bulkhead to chassis screws, and the rear motor plate screws were loosening very often. But it seemed that the car was getting faster. Bring it in, tighten the screws, and then my lap times went back up..... I eventually just let them do whatever they wanted as long as they didn't completely fall out!

Runner = All of the above!

If I HAD to choose JUST ONE, it would be the graphite... But that's just me because I have one planned to do soon! The Worlds would run the best!

I've decided to keep the worlds chassis. It made the best sense rather than trying to build up aother gold pan.