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So, on an impulse buy, I picked up this:



No, I am not a NIP/Shelfer/seal not broken kind of guy, so I tear into it...I didnt take pictures on each step, I was just happy to be building a new car.

Front end:



Close up (dont mind the castor blocks on the wrong side )



Nice shorty servo (that malfuntioned as soon as I tried to use it)

Really like the quick change shock mounts and beefy (steel) turnbuckles:



U-joint & carriers:



Add in the arms:



Bolt them on the chassis:

add on some towers & turnbuckles:



Then lets take some time to talk about not being a cavemen and use club fists to assemble the diff...

So it sits like the above shot for the next couple hours while I try to figure out how to recover from a stripped diff nut.

Side note: If you build an HPI Blitz ESE, you got the neat little tool for holding ball cups during assembly, hint = USE IT. The ball cups are exactly the same size...hmmm, maybe some white HPI cups may make an appearance in the near future

As some of us have done, what is an AE build without a couple Losi parts on it? Let me return the favor ...AE B4 diff screw and t-nut "fix" my diff issue. (Spoke with the Losi Team manager yesterday, they have a revised part already in testing). You can see a little white plastic in the diff



Since I was preparing for my next series race, I didnt take any more photos. I can tell you the first battery pack through the car was my first qualifier . All I had time to do was check steering trim and run it. Found (after) I had put the front caster blocks on backwards. So 25 degree front kick up shim & 10 degree caster blocks should have given me 35 degrees (yes, a set up mistake on my side), but instead I had 15 degrees....So I fixed that, and swapped to the 20 degree front block to give me an acceptable 30 degrees of front kick.

Car is VERY easy to drive and push hard. I had exchanged my defective Novak motor after the last race (love Novak warranty), but this one wasnt near as good as the last one. So I struggled in qualifying, missing the A main by 4 seconds. Just to tell you how competitive and close we all were, that put me 8th in the B!!! Swapped out motors with my Xcelrion 17.5 and geared it up a couple teeth (recommendation by a Team driver who was testing no-timing stock). Well, between the much stronger/faster motor, blue groove coming up quite well, traction at an all time high....I didnt check my slipper for the main. It was slipping really bad (like 8-10 feet) and I couldnt make any of the jumps properly. Once it did grab, I was flying around quite well. The set up changes and little tweaks recommended by the team worked fantastic.

How much does the completed car weigh, without the battery pack?

I didnt weight it without the pack, but during tech yesterday the car was OVER 1600 grams. Could be that big heavy lipo in there...LOL



Yes, full size big MAH lipos fit...

"Corrected" front suspension:



Full size servo in there, had to stand up the receiver:

looks real good joey. how are the shocks?

I love them. Super smooth and really soak up the bumps well. I think it was Eau Rouge that said the next big change in 1/10 offroad is going to be shocks. I want to agree, cant wait until the parts are out and plentiful (so prices come down) to snag another set of these, then I just need to get off my lazy butt and build a JRX car with them on it.

sweet.


is it me or does the buggy kind of remind you of durango's prototype?

maybe early versions, here are some shots from the euro champs of the 210, very B4 like:

http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/showthread.php?p=425939

how does the mid motor conversion work? does it come with different mount/s. or is it an option you have to buy?

All the parts for the mid motor system conversion are included in the kit.

Cheers

Darryn

RETRO R/C wrote:All the parts for the mid motor system conversion are included in the kit.

Cheers

Darryn

i take it that you got one as well darryn?