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I've been around here for a while and I think it is high time I document building something. I usually just start working on something and forget all about any pictures. This is not some earth shattering build but it is one I have going now. I have not restored a 10T yet so I picked this one up for a reasonable price.(Since I was slow on Treehuggers new one)



The truck is pretty dirty and every metal part is rusty. Though it is straight and no extra holes. Is a "B" chassis standard on these? Parts ready for a Super Clean bath. I soaked these in rust stripper of about 15 minutes. Parts after some toothbrush work and rinsing. The white parts will get some "special" treatment when the sun finally comes out. A little dremel wire brush work and a soak in some Break Free preservative. After dissasembly the truck actually looks to have very little run time. The outdrives are not worn hardly at all and the transmission looks almost new inside. Other than the steering servo being super glued to the chassis it looks pretty good. Nothing that some CA debonder and toothbrush couldn't handle.

The chassis is now in paint and I should have somthing in the next couple of days.

Looking forward to seeing the restore.

You really don't need bright sunlight for the peroxide trick to work - just put your stuff on the window sill and it will work. I thought the same thing until Treehugger told me different. We live in Seattle, so we know what life without the sun is like.

Well, I waited for the sun and it was finally out for a few days. I painted the chassis semi-gloss first and did not like the shine on it so I stripped it and used satin which I like much better. I did not need to mess with the motor plate and the chassis is almost an exact match sheen wise. I put the pictures above next to the before shots. Still need to clean up and put in the electronics. Then I will get a body from Mr.Lexan and see what I will start on next.

Too many pictures to add in the first post so I will put the before and afters here. The motor and speed control look almost new. I just need to clean the dust off of them.
The metal parts cleaned up well.
The steering servo had two sided tape and about half of a bottle of CA glue holding it on.
After many cycles of priming, wet sanding I got all the sctatches and pits filled. Then two coats of satin black.

Turned out really nice, great job

looks new
nice paint job!!

REALLY nice work!!!!!!! I see that as inspiration for a bunch of parts that are stored away in my basement and great tips for getting everything clean!

Did you coat the metal parts with anything after you cleaned them up??

I soaked them in Break-Free for a few days. The special forces uses it on their firearms. I got a few bottles from a friend of mine who is a Ranger. I have seen it at Cabelas and gun shops. If I recall Walmart has some Winchester labeled Break-Free. I don't know if it is really the same stuff though.

Break-Free CLP is good stuff, it really softens and protects tires too. i use to use it in schumacher mini pins at Birdsboro when we were only able to get them in blue compound.

Nice looking restoration! Interesting if the front springs were original as I thought the light green front springs were only on the T2 and black plastic late 10T's. I would love to know if they were original for this truck?

I really don't know. I picked this up for $78 and this is how it came. I don't think they are original because it feels like a thick type paint but I haven't seen any other light green ones to compare. Not much else has been messed with but mabe the springs were. I still need to tweak some details and the springs are one of them. Just need to find out what should be on there.

CamplinP wrote:I soaked them in Break-Free for a few days. The special forces uses it on their firearms. I got a few bottles from a friend of mine who is a Ranger. I have seen it at Cabelas and gun shops. If I recall Walmart has some Winchester labeled Break-Free. I don't know if it is really the same stuff though.

I'll give it a look!

On another note, there's a product out there called MASTER BLASTER; it's a penetrating type of spray designed to help break nuts and bolts loose. Side benefit of it is softening rubber tires. BUT, don't leave it on for extended periods of time - use it just before you run as it has a tendency to soak through and KILL the foamss!!!!! It smells really nasty so it must be good!

CamplinP wrote:I really don't know. I picked this up for $78 and this is how it came. I don't think they are original because it feels like a thick type paint but I haven't seen any other light green ones to compare. Not much else has been messed with but mabe the springs were. I still need to tweak some details and the springs are one of them. Just need to find out what should be on there.

The correct springs are the gold ones that are on the back of your truck. My truck came with those for all four corners when it was new. I suppose other versions could have come with others but that's what mine came with.

What kind of paint did you use on the tub? Was it basic Krylon black satin enamel? It really does look like a perfect match.

The paint is Rust-oleum Painters Touch Satin. I used Rust-oleum high build primer for the scratch filling. I am sure most other brands of the satin would be the same. I tried semi-gloss first and it was just a little to shiny to match the motor plate.