Bump steer

[Twiceblown351]

I see everone using B4 casther blocks and upright. and I did that. and the car got tons of bump steer. And i don't want that. When i use RC10 casther blocks I don't get that. do you guys have a lot of bump steer or is there some thing I missing. Im using SC10 steering blocks and B4 caster blocks.

Thanks Greg

[Charlie don't surf]

SC10 trailing arm blocks?

[Twiceblown351]

B4 uprights And SC10 steering blocks. They were out of B4 inline steering blocks.

But the bump steering that it has is way to much. And if this is the way they work this way. I'm going back to RC10 front upright and inline steering blocks.

[Charlie don't surf]

The trailing arm steering has a bunch to do with it- as does the height on the outer most steering link

[Twiceblown351]

I don't know what you mean by trailing arm steering? I now on a real car if the ball joint is inline with the spindle. That there will be no bump steer.

I don't know I guess I'm lost.

[klavy69]

I don't know I guess I'm lost.

from what I can tell you are in lebanon, TN...



j/k, Reggie will straighten you out...
Todd

[Charlie don't surf]

The inline steering has the vertical kingpin that runs through the aluminum or steel front axel- the trailing type has the axel behind the kingpin and sets the outer steering ballcup further back and changes the ackerman, and the bump steer- also the B/T/SC type steering arm and caster block have a different height compared to the bellcrank on a rc10, so shimming up or down at the steering arm may be necssicary to adjust. Also, I have the B4 blocks, and the inline steering arms on my runner, ans have no problems with bump

[Twiceblown351]

OK got you. I never herd of them called trailing arm steering. Thanks you.

So will a lot of the bump steer go away if i use b4 inline steering blocks.
I have all the spacers on the bottom now. And I know the shock i have right now are to long. I have to switch them out.
Thanks

[Jay Dub]

I dont know about the SC10 blocks, but I am using the B4/T4 blocks on my std castor blocks, and they are fine. It soulds to me like they may be installed upside down. If this is the case, they will give you LOTS of bump steer. -Jeff

[Twiceblown351]

Well let me look at that. I don't think i do. I looked at my sons SC10 when i put them on.

I,m building a buggy. with the RC10T nose and the RPM long arms. And saw that a lot of poeple were using the B4 and T4 steering on the end on the A-arms. And I see on my real RPM rc10 buggy and it has no bump steer.And this one dose with the B4 parts.

[Twiceblown351]

This is what im building.

[Charlie don't surf]

Alright!!!!!!!! it's always easier with pics!! Those are the trailing arms, and you are using it with an a&l rack, which places the angle of the steering rack more forward than stock as well-

so, when you combine the rack pushing the inboard link forward, and the trailing axel pushing the outer one back, your whole steering geometry changes-

Does it bump in on compression, or out?

[Twiceblown351]

There going out. on compression.

Damn I got a MIP rack I could put in it. But i love my A&L rack.
I should see if anyone got B4 inline in stock. no one had any when i got the steering blocks.

But yea there going out.

[Charlie don't surf]

First try flipping the steering blocks from L to R, ( run them upside down) it will lower the outside links and may help or solve the problem- I always grind by steering knuckles down so that I can use spacers on the top and bottom to adjust bump and other suspension settings via height-

[Twiceblown351]

OK thank Ill try that tomorrow. And let if that works.