Mid engine JRX2 on road project

[RCveteran]

My goal was to use up parts I had, I plan on runnning a 3S LIPO and massive gearing for top speed fun. Hardest part was the cutting a rear bulkhead bottom off and mating it to a front hinge pin support such that I end up with zero rear toe in and correct anti squat at level for now. I just need some sort of onroad body to set over it.

[RCveteran]

[Synergy]

Mado

[RCveteran]

Need help figuring out body. Wheelbase is 272mm, width at outside edge of tires is 245mm.

I am not to picky, but something that would fit over it nice and low.

Thanks.

[aconsola]

looks good, how about one of these for a body:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZUD6&P=7

I don't think you'll get much lower than this one:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTB0&P=SM

[Coelacanth]

Need help figuring out body. Wheelbase is 272mm, width at outside edge of tires is 245mm.

I am not to picky, but something that would fit over it nice and low.

That could be a challenge. I found most current on-road bodies are somewhere between 190 and 210mm wide. I had to do considerable modding of my front end to narrow the track to just under 200mm on my Optima--shorter control arms, shorter CVDs, tie rod & camber turnbuckles, and either shorter shocks or fabricating different shock towers (I had to do both). I believe my wheelbase was 260mm, which was a near-perfect match for several of HPI's vintage-themed bodies.

My rear tires still stick out about 10mm each side on a 200mm wide 1/10-scale body, and that even after downsizing my rear CVDs by 4 or 5mm. That's about as good as it gets. Bear in mind this is all relative to an accurately scaled 1/10 body. Parma & Bolink made bodies BITD that were better suited to fit 1/10 buggies, but accurate scale & design wasn't the first priority.

EDIT: aconsola's suggestions look pretty workable.

[JK Racing]

check McAllisters bodies also, they should have some that fit...

[bearrickster]

this is a cool body I am going to build one also I am just looking for the rear tower. I bought this body for mine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390256408372&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

[RCveteran]

All of those are great suggestions, I did not know where to begin never having really done any onroad stuff.

[Mr. ED]

will you drop in the hyperdrive belt drive? If not you're going to have to reverse the moter, or flip the moterplate to the other side.
The last is really easy on the JRX-2 so both would be pretty good choices. Still the hyperdive would be the best: the belt acts like a 4th gear.

[RCveteran]

It will be brushless so reversing the motor is just a wire swap.

[bearrickster]

cool I raced mine (non mid motor) with a JG lowering kit and a wide range of bodies. the lower dirt wedge bodies Tony posted work great a lot of down force

[kaiser]

cool I raced mine (non mid motor) with a JG lowering kit and a wide range of bodies. the lower dirt wedge bodies Tony posted work great a lot of down force

me too. i loved racing that car. the first thing i tought of when he mentioned speed runs was a wedge body. thats the only way to go IMHO.

[RCveteran]

I am thinking a 92T spur and a 48T pinion, just kidding, but if this thing is going to blow it will be a heroic JRX2 vintage blaze at full bore.

[aconsola]

I'm running my jrx-2 oval conversion with a 17.5t brushless.
The gearing I have is somewhere around 41/78. The foam tires are a bit smaller than buggy rubber though.