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fakiee wrote:So the all driveshafts sold for the YZ10 (works 94) were of the 'hard' variety?

Here is what the 94 manual shows!

aip47-2008 wrote:

fakiee wrote:So the all driveshafts sold for the YZ10 (works 94) were of the 'hard' variety?

Here is what the 94 manual shows!

Thanks!! Certainly cleared things up for me

Since this thread is already talking about Yokomo universals maybe I could ask a question on the topic....

I have the two universals shown (ZC422 and ZC423) with the lengths listed (not full length as can be seen in pic - this is because I believe that there are also a few lengths of axle which could throw the measurements off). I'm looking for a yok universal that measures 1mm longer than the shorter one here (so I'm looking for 69.5mm to 70mm dimension). Does anyone know if this exists? I know that ZC421 is too short but does anyone have a measurement for ZC422A or is there another part number that I don't know about? The ZC423 is just too long for what I need it for and the ZC422 pops out of the diff outdrive at full suspension extension.

Thanks everyone,

Jeff

Hi Jeff,
I have seen people use an 'O' ring on the shaft which is slid into place before the first bearing goes on.

Im currently after the 422 if you are looking to part with a pair or two.

Jeff, which 422 is that- I don't think that the rear 422a and the wide front 422 for the 870c are the same part exactly ie different offset at the hub

J.M. wrote:Hi Jeff,
I have seen people use an 'O' ring on the shaft which is slid into place before the first bearing goes on.

Im currently after the 422 if you are looking to part with a pair or two.

I've got 5mm shims and have tried everything.... but neither of these will work too well. I can explain relatively quick as it can get complicated. This is for the rear of the '89 masami yokomo with the wide rear white arms and modified RC10 rear hubs (as well as moded camber link position on that hub). It seems that this setup offers a lot of camber change throughout the suspension travel causing the universal to bottom out in the diff-outdrive rather quickly if the universal length is just a tiny bit too long. So, basically to utilize the full shock travel the universal has to be right at the edge of popping out of the drivecup at full suspension to ensure that it doesn't bottom out at full compression. To add more crap to this I could just use the ZC422 and put 1mm of shims before the first bearing (same as your o-ring idea) but then the axle portion of the universal doesn't sit flush with the aluminum wheel mounting hub (the axle is recessed by about 1mm) and since I'm being overly anal I'd prefer not to do that. This is why I need such a specific dimension and was hoping the ZC422A could work.

Charlie don't surf wrote:Jeff, which 422 is that- I don't think that the rear 422a and the wide front 422 for the 870c are the same part exactly ie different offset at the hub

It is just the plain ZC422 - no extra letters at all. Different offsets should still be fine - even if the axle portion is a little longer that would actually help one of my issues. But then again, it could also be shorter

J.M. wrote:Im currently after the 422 if you are looking to part with a pair or two.

I actually do have a nip set that I thought I needed but seem to have freed themselves up!!

xxxmain wrote:

J.M. wrote:Hi Jeff,
I have seen people use an 'O' ring on the shaft which is slid into place before the first bearing goes on.

Im currently after the 422 if you are looking to part with a pair or two.

I've got 5mm shims and have tried everything.... but neither of these will work too well. I can explain relatively quick as it can get complicated. This is for the rear of the '89 masami yokomo with the wide rear white arms and modified RC10 rear hubs (as well as moded camber link position on that hub). It seems that this setup offers a lot of camber change throughout the suspension travel causing the universal to bottom out in the diff-outdrive rather quickly if the universal length is just a tiny bit too long. So, basically to utilize the full shock travel the universal has to be right at the edge of popping out of the drivecup at full suspension to ensure that it doesn't bottom out at full compression. To add more crap to this I could just use the ZC422 and put 1mm of shims before the first bearing (same as your o-ring idea) but then the axle portion of the universal doesn't sit flush with the aluminum wheel mounting hub (the axle is recessed by about 1mm) and since I'm being overly anal I'd prefer not to do that. This is why I need such a specific dimension and was hoping the ZC422A could work.

you might just not have enough internal spacers in your shocks? I will measure both sets I have for the 870 wide front ( and axle portion ) and the rear 93 set ( and axle portion ) tomorrow to see what if any difference there is

Yea, I could do that too, but I wouldn't want to add much more than 1mm of limiters or the droop would be too little (and then I'd have to limit the front to keep balance correct). Since I'm not using the actual arms that masami had the droop is already approaching the limits to keep things realistic.

But, for fun I cut up the instructions from above and placed the 423 below the 422A and the dimensions on the 422A may actually be what I need (assuming that the drawings are somewhat to scale). That would be perfect if you could measure up your 422A's for me Reg!!

Thanks for the help with this guys!!

THIS JUST IN.......... you should attach pics when you reference them.

Hi Jeff

I just measured some nib ZC-422a that i have here and they are the same as ZC-422 they just have a longer flat on the end?

Peter

jeff here is a zd-422 that i had sitting in a box

pedro wrote:Hi Jeff

I just measured some nib ZC-422a that i have here and they are the same as ZC-422 they just have a longer flat on the end?

Peter

Thanks Peter!! That does suck though... I was really hoping they were a bit longer.

Does anyone know of any other part numbers that haven't been mentioned?

Hi jeff

Ii've got something here that is that lenght but the shaft is 6mm with a 4mm screw on the end if you give me your email i'll send a pic, i just measured it up with a mx4 cvd at it uses 6mm bearings and it exacly the same lengh so i'm thinking it might be be the from the mr4bc? the other problem is i only have the one...

peter