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Anyone know much about the Schumacher 3000 car, I have had one for years and never reallyraced it. I have severall 2000's as well and it was a good car.

I can remember when the 3000 came out but all I know about it is what I read in RCCA back then. What I do remember is that is was one cool looking buggy to me.

Randy I own a Cat3000 and absolutely love it. ve run mine at a couple of clubbies and it still holds its own. I would go as far as saying I prefer it even more than my modern race cars.

Thanks for the info, I think I will try and get up to race Standards.

I raced a CAT3K for a few seasons back around 2002/3. Car was awesome on low - medium grip tracks (dirt & clay) but I didn't find it easy to use on high grip astroturf. There are 2 versions, the original with short & medium shocks plus a "laydown" style shock angle, and a later "Evo" version with long rear & medium shocks, taller towers and the batteries moved slightly back (like Bormac's car). These changes were all aimed at improving the car on U.S. style big jump tracks.

Schumacher made a great upgrade for this car, T.D.S. torque distribution system, basically a slipper with an adjustable one way layshaft bearing to adjust the amount of braking / one way affect you wanted on the front axle. Very useful for slippery tracks.

There's more info here in my showroom http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=73029&sid=23061 - biggest problems I had with mine (I raced the Evo version) was breaking the tall shock towers and getting stones stuck in the rear diff on dirt tracks.

biggest problems I had with mine (I raced the Evo version) was breaking the tall shock towers and getting stones stuck in the rear diff on dirt tracks.

Yeah, I'll pay that! Had a big stone jamb up the rear diff too. I will be looking at making a lexan deflector of some type in the future.

Forgot to say: if you go racing make sure the plastic "blades" on the inboard end of the driveshafts are in good nick because once they wear through, the driveshaft pin will chew through the alloy diff outdrives in minutes......

minichamps11 wrote:Forgot to say: if you go racing make sure the plastic "blades" on the inboard end of the driveshafts are in good nick because once they wear through, the driveshaft pin will chew through the alloy diff outdrives in minutes......

LOL! Yep that happended to me too! Ha hahahaha. Thank goodness I have a heap of those plasic blades as back up.

I had one brand new when they came out raced it for a season, only real problems was the driveshaft blades as mentioned and of course those wing mount o-rings stock up on both of those, a few screws, diff balls, shock seals/oil and you're good for a seasons racing. I also ran the TDS and had no issues with that.

Oh I forgot of course I had the stone issue as well it chewed up the diff pulley only happened once, if you race on a surface with chance of small stones as mentioned a piece of lexan would be ideal.

I've got a couple of CAT 3000's. Great cars to drive and plenty good enough to keep with the more modern stuff.

Here's some pics of my two.













The carbon fibre one has most of the upgrades, TDS and lots of purple alloy

CAT3K, if you don't mind, what is the green & red body on the 2wd in the background of one of the pictures? I've been looking for a narrow buggy body that has a real nose - but everything narrow seems to be designed to end before the front uprights.

Hi Zipster, it's a Mardave Cobra.



It's an old buggy but pretty rugged. If you're after a bodyshell i think Mardave are about to re-release a 2011 version of it so spares are listed on the website now http://mardaveonline.co.uk/Prices/mardave%20Retail%202011.pdf You might want to send Chris at mardave an email first though to see if he's changed the shell for the new version.

Paul.

Cool, much thanks! I think that might actually work. Pretty interesting buggy as well, I'm not that familiar with Mardave. I've heard of them, but can't say that I've ever seen one!