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it's just an idea. B3 arms are slightly longer than B2's. so I'll try the arms. but didn't go further yet. any idea on CVD and hub carriers?

Hyeong

They will work if you are using the B3 rear axles, since they are straight 3/16" instead of 1/4" taper on the B2. The rear track width will be skinnier due to the deep offset of the B4 wheel, but they DO work. Kyosho UM414 wheels will bolt to the B3 rear axles. 2.2" diameter, 3/16" hole size, and proper offset.

Brandon G wrote:They will work if you are using the B3 rear axles, since they are straight 3/16" instead of 1/4" taper on the B2. The rear track width will be skinnier due to the deep offset of the B4 wheel, but they DO work. Kyosho UM414 wheels will bolt to the B3 rear axles. 2.2" diameter, 3/16" hole size, and proper offset.

Thanks for finding another solution for the B3.

59burst wrote:it's just an idea. B3 arms are slightly longer than B2's. so I'll try the arms. but didn't go further yet. any idea on CVD and hub carriers?

Hyeong

You could also try rear wheels for the Thunder Tiger Phoenix BX buggy. The Phoenix is essentially a B3 only with metric screws and such.

However, I believe that the rear wheels are essentially the same as the B3's.

On my 1 and only B2. I use B3 rear arms with B44 rear cvds.
This gives plenty of room for many wheel options. No bind at all.

6000kv killed the stock dog-bone.

B3 arms
B4 hub carriers with hinge pin hole drilled out to 1/8"
B4 CVD kit
B4 wheels

Comes out at the same width as a B3 with proline widebody wheels on it, and the eliminates the problem of dogbones popping out of the outdrives.

How bout the front then? Would like to run b4 wheels all the way around.

Front B4 wheels should be no problem on the B2/3