RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I got a graphite chassis in a parts lot from another member in here. Its in pretty bad shape, although I kinda knew it would be when I bought it. The main problem is that it has thick superglue around the edge of the chassis. Ive been using a razor to try and scrape it off but I cant remove the thick areas. Is there anything I can use to soften it up without hurting the chassis?

Yeah I know this is a losi graphite chassis, but this question could be applied to an associated graphite chassis too.

I was just reading a post here where another member used acetone to remove crazy glue......never tried it myself but it sounds good

I have gently used a razor blade, and gently shaved the CA glue off. Other than that I have used Acetone, Nailpolish remover, and some paint stripper to remove it. (all used sparingly so not to damage the chassis or my health). Just a word of caution, DO NOT heat it up! ALthough it sounds tempting, you are going to cause some nasty fumes, as does using a Dremel with attachments.

A paint scraping razor (retractable) can be found at lowes or home depot and works great, just be careful, not to cut into the chassis, or yourself.

Best of Luck
Maurice

get yourself acetone from the hardware store, as nail polish remover is not strong enough.

stick the chassis in a polyethylene bag, like a big freezer ziplock bag, and add acetone to cover the chassis, if you can push most of the air out of the bag, you don't need much acetone.

let it sit for at least overnight, and most of the CA should dissolve. repeat the application as needed to dissolve all the CA. after the first application, if there is any remaining clumps, scrape it down to break through the skin, and it will help dissolve.

I did this with a compositecraft/trinity chassis, so I would advise it to be a good idea to try it out in a small section on the losi chassis, but I bet it probably would be OK.

Some places also sell super glue and CA remover for specific brands. I've never tried it, so I can't say how well it works.

contrary to what maurice said, you can use heat and it does work well. But, in accordence to what maurice said, it does put off fumes that are very bad for you.

I've done it on a larger than RC car scale and I would say that use of a proper resperator is NOT OPTIONAL!

PBR Allstar wrote:contrary to what maurice said, you can use heat and it does work well. But, in accordence to what maurice said, it does put off fumes that are very bad for you.

I've done it on a larger than RC car scale and I would say that use of a proper resperator is NOT OPTIONAL!

Oh yes i had forgotten that, NEVER NEVER breath the fumes from heated crazy glue ........i do believe it is cyanide gas that is released......not good at all.
Thanks for the reminder PBR

Thanks guys. I bought some Acetone today and I'll let the chassis sit in it overnight tonight.

I had a Turbo Ultima top radio plate that somebody had superglued velcro to to hold on radio gear. I decided to try the acetone trick, but the only thing I had was my 1 gallon paint can I use for tires. So I sit this thing in there and leave it for about 24 hrs. When I pulled it out, the part that was submerged in the acetone was still nice and stiff, but the part that was NOT submerged was soft and flexible. Effectively ruined. I tried to let it sit and re harden, but it never did. Moral of the story: Make sure when you do this the whole part is submerged in the acetone.

Some plastic parts soften in acetone so be careful.

Most super glue debonders/removers are MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). It should be much more agressive than acetone. Use gloves, resperator, etc as you should with any solvent containing ketones (acetone, mek, laquer thinner, etc.) Check to see if it attacks the chassis first however. -Jeff