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Anyone have some tips on threading the lock nut on an assembled diff shaft? It's like the shaft is 1/8" too short, and compressing the spring while trying to thread the nut and holding the gears is next to impossible. The bearings / bearing cups, slipper mechanisms appear to be seated properly, I just don't get it.

I have a few of them and they're all the same length. I notice that the newer diff shafts some guys are using on their stealths are quite a bit longer, wish i could use one of those!

Looks like your're mixing up six-gear trans (diff is outside the box, no slipper) and the Stealth where the diff is inside with a slipper unit on the top shaft. The two shafts are totally different and certainly not interchangeable. As for the "newer" shaft you're refering to, it's the B4 trans top shaft that can be used without any mod on the old Stealth in order to use the B4 slipper unit. So what do you have there? A pic would help a lot...

sounds like the right side may not be seated all the way into the tranny housing.

and I agree, some pics would help!

hmm, sorry for the confusion, I'm getting my terminology mixed up between 6 gear and stealth. I only have one photo, I'll put more up later when I get home. You'll notice the spring isn't on, I'm not running it that way, I just put it together like that to temporarily.


http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/oldskoolracer1000/RC10/rc10a2.jpg

either the shaft has been trimmed or the upper shaft assembly is not built right and fully seated.

Did u get this car from somebody, or did u build it originally? If someone else built it, tear out the tranny and clean & rebuild per the manual, and try again.

Also, whats the condition of the threads on the shaft & nut? They might be toast. Or like JWS said, its been trimmed or shortened if the shaft is that much substantially shorter (1/8'), and its time for a new one. Might have the wrong diff spring too, can't tell from the photo since its not pictured.

Shafts are available on ebay (#6618) as well as diff nuts (#6629, JG Thin Diff Nut, etc.) and diff springs (#6628, #6629)........Good Luck hope u get it fixed!

while your working on the back of the car, you might aswell take the shocks apart an ad some limiters to them. looks like the dogbones are riding on the arms.

or just move the bottom of the shock to the outer hole on the arm. that should help a little bit.

You might be right, perhaps it's time to purchase a new shaft and spring. I bought the car from a guy years ago and never touched it, until now.

Regarding the suspension, you just named my next project. Any recommendations as to weight of oil and spring settings that might be a decent starting point? I plan on racing at a local rc track in the modified class.

Also, any idea where I could find an original style RCC10 body? When I hit the track I'm going retro.

AE is still selling the original Protech body, Tower and many other stores carry them.

I am also building a racer, and I havent landed on a set up yet, still building the car...

I am planning on using B4 shocks all around, I will probably start with the shocks a touch heavier than a B4

front: 35 with #2 pistons, green springs
rear: 35 #1 pistons, green springs

Subject to change as I actually hit dirt...

Take the entire top shaft/diff assembly out and make sure it was put together right. If anything has been added to the inside like thicker washers or some kind of spacer of different bearing it will spread the entire assembly apart making the shaft seem too short. You never know what the previous owner may have done when he built the tranny.