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Well i remember a thread on paint guns in here but i think it succumbed to the auto prun. i think its high time i bite the bullet and get something to paint the 10 bodys i have . most of them are box art from BITD so nothing to exotic.
I have a coppressor and a good moisture trap !

Paul

You crazy Brit! Are you talking about an airbrush maybe?
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=14597

CRAZY Eccentric maybe but crazy well maybe a little

You cannot go wrong with an Iwata. Best airbrush I have ever used.

But for a beginner/non-pro, it's probably not worth the investment to get an Iwata. You can get Paasche VL and H parts at HobbyLobby or the local HS, and the VL kit is more than enough for most people. Not to mention that it comes with 3 tip/needle sizes and is a workhorse. Keep it clean, and it will treat you well for a long time.

For shooting a few bodies a year, it's not worth it for most people to overbuy an airbrush.

Here’s the “paint gun” system that I use. It’s more like a water cannon. You just pull the trigger and hope that your tape job holds up! I paint about 2 bodies a year. I just can’t bring myself to buy an airbrush. I’d love to try one though…

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:Here’s the “paint gun” system that I use. It’s more like a water cannon. You just pull the trigger and hope that your tape job holds up! I paint about 2 bodies a year. I just can’t bring myself to buy an airbrush. I’d love to try one though…

yes this is the reason im comiting, about 4 hrs to mask clean and prep and the can started of fine then about half way through it just farted up big blobs of red then just ran clear which bleed under in some spots i managed to clean the bleed but that was the last time i shake up any cans
my paint gun sorry AIR BRUSH will be here this week i had to side with square head! as well ... he,s the go to man for paint info

Paul

treehugger wrote:

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote:Here’s the “paint gun” system that I use. It’s more like a water cannon. You just pull the trigger and hope that your tape job holds up! I paint about 2 bodies a year. I just can’t bring myself to buy an airbrush. I’d love to try one though…

yes this is the reason im comiting, about 4 hrs to mask clean and prep and the can started of fine then about half way through it just farted up big blobs of red then just ran clear which bleed under in some spots i managed to clean the bleed but that was the last time i shake up any cans
my paint gun sorry AIR BRUSH will be here this week i had to side with square head! as well ... he,s the go to man for paint info

Paul

Are you implying that he's a better painter than I am?? Furthermore, I find that if I hold the can in front of my crotch and shake it, I get a nice even spray. Except when the can explodes. Sorry! Vacation everybody...vacation...

As crazy at that sounds, it's also true. Warm it up and it sprays better.

If you are committed to using spray bombs for painting (aerosol cans), if you let the can sit in a bowl of warm to hot water (not boiling) for about 10-15 minutes before using—the warmer paint and pressurized gas will yield a finer spray out of the nozzle. It works! And use many light coats! It's a MUST with aerosols.





Also, there used to be certain colors of certain brands of R/C paint that were only available in aerosol, so we would vent them into a cup by holding a rag over the cup and emptying the whole can inside. You could then use the paint in an airbrush thinned to whatever consistency you wanted. The original Pactra lacquer candy yellow is one that comes immediately to mind.

What kills me about cans is the price. $6-7 a pop and you can't really get more than one shell out of it. 3 colors at $7 is as much as you pay for the shell. And there's never quite enough left for another body...

You pay for the convenience of not having to buy an airbrush and a compressor.

Between the airbrush, compressor, hoses, moisture trap, regulator, paint, reducer, cleaners and other materials you use in custom painting, you could easily have $300-400 invested in a good painting setup before you even spill paint. I probably have 4-5 times that invested in my materials and tools for painting bodies and helmets





Makes $7 a can not so expensive, ehh?

i have a nice collection of old unpainted bodys so for me its protecting my investment and i have all the traps compressor and regulator so the 70 bucks is 10 cans of paint

Paul

Eau Rouge wrote:Between the airbrush, compressor, hoses, moisture trap, regulator, paint, reducer, cleaners and other materials you use in custom painting, you could easily have $300-400 invested in a good painting setup before you even spill paint.

Reason #133 I will always use cans... Looking at the pretty pictures is just fine with me...

The "MAIN" reason I like spray cans is - "I DON"T HAVE TO CLEAN MY AIRBRUSH" !!!!!!

I don't consider myself a master painter, but I will share some ideas here.
I prefer the control an airbrush offers, whether its a dual action unit for the more masterful, or the single action like I use, the paint/air flow is controlled by me. Even with a single action airbrush, custom colors and fades are possible if you are willing to experiment.
I've heard several conversations over spray bomb vs airbrush and each has its own merits.
If you are going to dabble in airbrushing, buy an affordable airbrush and either buy a small air compressor for like $79 at Menards or get a small air tank with a pressure regulator. The cost of those cans of compressed air add up real quick, so the airtank/pressure regulator technique is very cost effective.
As for the cost of thinner, insofar as cleaning an airbrush is concerned, a $10 batch of laquer thinner goes a long way. Just use the 'correct' thinner when actually spraying your laquer of choice. If you use acrylic AKA faskolor, then water or windshield washer fluid work quite well and are dirt cheap as far as cleanup is concerned.
As a side note, not only are the aerosol propellant cans expensive, the pressure drops off as the can cools down and is used up.
Just my two cents...

Best O'Luck!