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Someone talk me off the ledge here. I'm ready to just get the stealth trans template and drill the holes required in these A stamp gold pan runner chassis I have.

I've been chasing issues from day one it seems, especially with my son's. It's been chewing up spur gears and I don't understand why. After it chewed up another 32 pitch, I decided to just do 48 pitch as long as I was buying new parts. I bought this from Tower:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=LXEY28&search=Go

And a not too aggressive pinion. Only when I go to install it with the stock slipper balls, the metal rings that sandwich the slipper balls, even with the nut and spring tightened all the way, are still not making enough contact. The Robinson spur is moving axially on the transmission shaft which won't work. I tried it on both my trans and my son's car's trans and both are the same. Is this Robinson Racing spur not meant to work on our cars? Or are both of my 6-gear trans in need of some work?

I'm running mild, brushed motors.

the spur gear floats between the rings, there is slight play in the axial direction. If the gear was sandwiched directly against the diff plates there would be no differential action as the whole thing would be locked up. radially there should be minimal if any movement of the gear in relation to the hub.

if you are chewing through 32pitch gears, 48 will only be worse until you find out what the problem is as the teeth are smaller and more prone to breakage.

hey flipwils11, I wouldn't just go drilling your chassis without trying other things first. Having said that, I just drilled, cut and removed the anodizing of an A stamped chassis today. They key thing is that you are using the chassis and are going to continue to use it. Weather or not you but four new holes in it to install a stealth trans or continue to scratch up the bottom by driving it, which you are going to do anyway, I don't think makes a difference.

Here mine all cut up and drilled just to make you feel less guilty

Rod just called me and said that you better put that chassis under your "special" microscope, because that chassis is not fully de-anodized

use kimbrough spurs.

If you mess up drilling, I have an extra A stamp (and it is fully de-anodized )

that gear you have linked looks to have too small a pattern for the diff balls/rings.

use what scr8p said. and make sure you get the gear mesh correct. You want the teeth to have just the slightest amount of play between them. You can use a piece of newspaper between the pinion and spur to set the backlash. if they are too loose, you'll rip off teeth. if they are too tight, the gear profile will get mangled and wear quickly.

Charlie don't surf wrote:Rod just called me and said that you better put that chassis under your "special" microscope, because that chassis is not fully de-anodized

I don't want to take away from the help flipwils11 wants from this thread, but Reggie you are right. I took a look under the microscope and there is still quite a bit left

gear needs to have the wide spacing like these:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=%3Cb%3Ekimbrough%3C%2Fb%3E+spur+gears+48p

Do you have a chassis with the stealth holes already? Just use it as a template. I place the bottoms of the chassis together and then bolt them to each other using the nose plate holes and the arm mount holes. You only need 2 bolts. This makes for a fool proof method of drilling the holes.

thanks guys, I'll try the Kimbrough spur and hopefully that will work. No, I don't have a stealth chassis to use as a template.