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Guys, I completely stripped down & rebuilt my main motor. I don't even have a clue what it began life as originally, but it had "14 x 1" marked on the armature, I'm assuming that to be a 14T wind. It was a 4-minute motor I believe.

Anyway, on to my question. I received a crappy Reedy Radon 30000 RPM motor that otherwise had a really nicely-soldered endbell. I broke one of the capacitors off my "black can" motor, so I re-soldered 3 new ones on, using some documentation and that Radon endbell for reference. The one thing I changed from the original black can wiring configuration is where I soldered the red & black motor leads going to the ESC. On all my other motors (and the black can previously), the leads were soldered on opposite sides. But, I decided to solder these on like the way the guy did with the Radon, as it's neater and easier to route the leads.

I'm a bit nervous about putting juice through this without some expert knowledge and confirmation that I've wired this endbell up correctly. I hope the pics are clear enough. I also think I currently have the motor set to zero degrees of timing, but again I'd appreciate some confirmation? It's been about 25 years since I did this kinda thing, and I'm a tad rusty!

Thanks guys!

The capasitors seems to be technically OK. I don't know is it only a optical illusion, but I would make the capasitor legs shorter or put some insulator around them, so that the capasitor legs from positive to negative can't touch the ground/can/capasitor legs to can. Insulators can be made from receiver antenna wire or from servo wire. Try to make those legs almost so short as possible. You do not want that those legs will bend in crash or something and then touch somewhere that conduct electricity in your car.

Timing: That is zero degree timing or 180* timing. If the rotor spins to right direction it's 0* otherwise it's 180*.

You can run that motor straight from 1-4 cell from battery pack and see if it works ok, so that the ESC will be not a fuse if something is wrong in Your motor. You can also see the right rotor rotation.

Jirka

what you have wired is perfectly fine, the wires can be soldered at either side of the brush hood, just need to be on opposite hoods, obviously. in fact, there should be a small + and - molded into the plastis somwhere close to those solder tabs.

the cap leads are a little long, but you can tape or heat shrink them or redo them if necessary.

if the motor runs the wrong way, swap the leads. timing looks to be close to zero.

Thanks guys. It's not an optical illusion, you are both right--the capacitor legs are too long, I'll re-solder them. It's good to know I can leave the (+) and (-) motor leads there, because it ends up being a lot neater than having them on opposite sides of the endbell.

I am rusty on this one and this thread makes me realize I need to understand the capacitors better. What are they doing exactly? I have some motors like this without them and they seem to run OK??

Caps filter out interference, 'radio noise'. I think.

motor commutators generate huge noise spikes that can affect your radio, particularly the am and fm systems.

so the caps act as a 'short' to high frequencies and get rid of the spikes, thus preventing glitches. the caps are configured in the way they show for convenience, and effectiveness.

Ahh yes, now I remember that. I am running 2.4ghz even with old stuff so maybe that is why I have not noticed interference.