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I was going to hold off until I got further in the build, but I got board today. I been collecting a few parts here and there, and will continue to for a while longer due to some short term financial issues.

A few left over parts were left on the bench when my RC10 old/new runner was complete and seen an opportunity to start an old/new graphite runner.

I seen these parts in front of me and thought I would put them to use. Got new RPM Team arms, B4 front blocks and spindles, rear losi hubs, 10T towers, JConceps Rulux wheels wrapped in Double Dees rears and Groovy fronts. I got a lightly used graphite chassis off of ebay, then realized that I cant use the front shock tower. The 10T rear tower was on the other build and eventually was replaced with a Worlds rear tower and found that it worked better. I hit up Fibre-lyte for a set of Worlds towers, the front with the brace. I got some gold stuff from Atlas, which goes nice with the gold mini nuts and the new RPM gold motor guard. Also collected was some NIP stealth parts, a white NIP RPM RC10 rear bulkhead, and NIP RPM body posts. I'm waiting for a white battery cup and an A&L Factory Works battery strap from treehugger...sorry for using you photo Paul I got some of it put together.

I was thinking about using white arm mounts, but for a runner, I think I should spring for gold mounts from Atlas. I think that I might leave the white parts out and use black parts to make the gold parts pop more. Slotcarod already has claimed the rear bulkhead in exchange for another one that is used...this way I don't feel as bad dying it. I had a new black stealth case, but would have to dye anything else black. I didn't have all of the B4 top drive, so I used all of the original stealth parts. The CVDs in the above photo is actually a set of B44 front CVA and are too long for the RPM team arms, so they will be up for sale along with the unused towers.

Nice project. I am going to do one to with the fibre lite RC10T rear tower and six hole front tower . I was looking at scrp8's car and was going to try and cut down the chassis for the 10T front tower and mount but gave up on that .

rctenracer wrote:Nice project. I am going to do one to with the fibre lite RC10T rear tower and six hole front tower . I was looking at scrp8's car and was going to try and cut down the chassis for the 10T front tower and mount but gave up on that .

Thanks rctenracer! Scr8p's car is awesome, I cut down a composite chassis for a 10T buggy build. You might want to revisit that again. Just measure a bunch of times, then drill. If you go to the link, you will notice it took me a bit to get it right. The mistakes are covered by the skidplate

This is looking great man, love the color combo...

What are you going to do about those Rulux wheels and the offset with those arms?

Not my build, but...

The losi rear hubs are going to take care of some of the offset, but I don't think they will get it all, may need some dirt oval wheel spacers. As for the front those B4 caster blocks and steering blocks will take care of the offset for that end.

Mikeyboy wrote:What are you going to do about those Rulux wheels and the offset with those arms?

umm, don't know, what am I going to encounter with that combo? I better moc them up with the B44 CVAs.

you're gonna need b4 rear hubs if you want to use those rulux rims.

scr8p wrote:you're gonna need b4 rear hubs if you want to use those rulux rims.

I used B4 carriers with B3 cvds using the same rear arms. The Rulux fit on there, but are a little on the too deep side. You will have to go to the closest in setting (closest to the mounts) in order for it to work with the rulux....

scr8p wrote:you're gonna need b4 rear hubs if you want to use those rulux rims.

YUP!

Just wondering how the spacers worked out for you scr8p, or did you eventually use B4 hubs too?

I had these hubs on Kline arms and had less issues with the offset. The wheel wore down a little bit of the hub, but my main concern was not being able to mount the shock in the outside mount position. It had slipped my mind til now. I bought another set of 2.2 wheels prior to this build, these ones Proline, which seem to have a similar offset. Looks like if I want to get away from this the B4 hubs are the way to go. Thanks for the refresher. Guess that's why we post these builds, not just to show off, but mostly for the help along the way.

Toasted Coastie wrote:

scr8p wrote:you're gonna need b4 rear hubs if you want to use those rulux rims.

I used B4 carriers with B3 cvds using the same rear arms. The Rulux fit on there, but are a little on the too deep side. You will have to go to the closest in setting (closest to the mounts) in order for it to work with the rulux....

TC, I think B2 CVDs would work better. I know a lot of guys have used the Team Car RPM arms with Worlds towers, but I have yet to narrow down who's using what the most. Either the info is not there or I found that I just didn't remember the last build by yhe time I found the next one with the same setup The later is probably more accurate

i don't use the stock arm/modified b4 hub method. i personally don't like it. but if you want to use the stock arms and run b4 rims, you don't have much of a choice.

i like using the klein/rpm worlds arms, losi/cw hubs, b44 cvd's, and will continue to build runners using that platform. you can buy the parts, take them out of the bags, and install them right on the car. no modifications needed.

I hear ya...I got the rear Kline arms left over from my old/new pan car, so I can change out the arms if I decide to go that way. I'm thinking since I am not going to trim the front down and put Kline/Worlds arms on the front, then I would just stick to a RC10 platform with modern wheels. I already have a old/new car that works really well, so I'm not so much inclined to go all the way into the suspension setup with this one.

vintage AE wrote:

Toasted Coastie wrote:

scr8p wrote:you're gonna need b4 rear hubs if you want to use those rulux rims.

I used B4 carriers with B3 cvds using the same rear arms. The Rulux fit on there, but are a little on the too deep side. You will have to go to the closest in setting (closest to the mounts) in order for it to work with the rulux....

TC, I think B2 CVDs would work better. I know a lot of guys have used the Team Car RPM arms with Worlds towers, but I have yet to narrow down who's using what the most. Either the info is not there or I found that I just didn't remember the last build by yhe time I found the next one with the same setup The later is probably more accurate

I misspoke. I used RPM RC10 GT carriers with B3 CVD kit. Works great.

Cool, thanks TC! I went with the B4 hubs though. They needed to be reamed with a 1/8" bit and had to scuff the sides to fit in the RPM arms, but that's no biggie. Just in case some of the others need a visual

upper photo is the Losi and the bottom photo is the B4 hub, notice the difference in the distance the inner wheel is in from the hub