RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Guys I have been trying to get my parts stripped for the past few days and this is a complete PITA. How in the world are you guys getting this done? I have tried the Purple Power stuff as well as the Yellow Top easy off.

I got my motor plate done but the nose plate and the tub are giving me all kinds of problems. I have read all the posts I could find regarding this. I am soaking the parts and then using steel wool to help the removal process but it is taking forever. Much longer than the 15 mins I have read previously. What am I doing wrong? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jake

Never used steel wool to assist on any pieces. I have plunked parts in a plastic storage container, covered them in EZoff and let them sit. Rinse after the pieces lose their color. Repeat to clean, then rinse again. Polish after stripping, because they turn grey or black when complete. Never needed more than 15-20 minutes or so.

the yellow easy off worked but if you left it on too long it destroys the finish even after trying to sand out.

Greased lightning, or the Sam's club Pro-Force is the best about 2 quarts and sink the whole chassis, pull out and run under water and agitate with a stiff nylon bristle brush

Spray the easy off yellow can and top apply really thick heavy coat on it.If light annodizing it takes less orange gold ones are thicker coating takes alot more but ive been seeing a white residue under them thats harder to get off and some place aqnno is aplied thick as hell so takes 4 or 5 tries to get it off.I use 0000 brillo to scrub leftover anno off it then reapply to get any black residue off and wash soap and water lightly rubbing with the 0000 brillo looks almost polished.Hope this helps.DON

Greased lightning is the sh*t it will take it off in a few hours. drop them in go to bed wash them off in the morning.

Disregard, I got fed up and let the dang things sit for a while. Done deal now, I am good to go.

Jake

i think it depends on the chassis... i had a cleaner i was using (forget the name) and steel wool.. started on my worlds chassis and it was a real pain.. then i did a team car motor plate ,that was easy.. then i sprayed that same cleaner on a old gold pan just to clean a dirty chassis and the ano came off....

I must say the ano run AE did when this chassis was in the bath was some quality anodizing. I have never had something so difficult to do in my life. Man I need a blasting cabinet and my life would be sooooo much easier. The motor plate and nose plate went smooth. The chassis on the other hand is much more of a problem. I got all the color off and now I have to do some serious clean up work. Oh well it is something to work on tomorrow.

Jake

Amazingly, these cleaners will not affect paint at all. I had a black chassis that had real good matching paint on the bottom. The easy-off took everything off quickly except the bottom. After some time I figured out that it had a coat of paint on it. Paint remover then easy-off and was good to go. I once came across a motor plate with a clear coating of it. Same thing.

bigjeepzz wrote:Man I need a blasting cabinet and my life would be sooooo much easier.

I glass beaded an aluminum tub once... Completely ruined it. The only media I can think of that might work are walnut shells.

Baking soda should work too in a sand or media blaster without hurting the finish.Takes paint off cars without having to mask off anything.DON

No Kidding! I would have thought of baking soda working like that. I would figure it would not be abrasive enough to get through the ano.

I got everything stripped but I still need to work on getting the desired finish. I am going for the brushed/machined look prior to anodizing on this tub.

Jake

New green 3m scotch brite pad worked in the same direction

i glass bead aluminum parts all the time. it's never screwed anything up.