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Here is the start to my project racer. I started with a Composite Craft graphite chassis that I drilled for the Stealth transmission. All of the nylon was already dyed, but very poorly, so I re-dyed it all. I used Andy's arms front and rear, Houge steering, AE rear graphite shock tower, Racers Edge B4 rear hub carriers, and Racers Edge B4 wing mounts. I am trying to come up with the rest of the parts to complete the build. I will keep you posted.

where can I find that 'racers edge' spoiler mount? I think I'd like to use that on a build (if the price is fair). How does it compare to the standard B4 part?

Mr. ED wrote:where can I find that 'racers edge' spoiler mount? I think I'd like to use that on a build (if the price is fair). How does it compare to the standard B4 part?

I bought my Racers Edge stuff from a local hobby shop. I bought them on close out. They are aluminum compared to the factory plastic, so they are slightly heavier, but much stronger. Just found the tag: Racers Edge part #9440. Original price was $23.99, but I paid $7.00. Hope this helps.

thanks, as the shape is the same I'll look around for the original part. So highup on the car I rather use a lighter part... and I'm cheap

Update. Got the B4 rear CV's installed after much grinding and fitting as well as the front spindles and knuckles. Also got the B4 top shaft and slipper installed. Getting close. Just need to rebuild the B4 shocks and install those. Get the electronics installed and tune it up. I am looking forward to seeing how this car handles.

Did you pick up a graphite front tower, or dye the glass one black? Looking good by the way!

losiXXXman wrote:Did you pick up a graphite front tower, or dye the glass one black? Looking good by the way!

Thanks, glad you like it.

I dyed the glass tower for now. I had a graphite front tower, but let it go with another car. If I run across a graphite tower, I will swap it out. I would also like to get titanium tie rods throughout. I am on a real limited budget right now, so I will get better/upgraded parts as I can afford them. I also plan on stripping the gold motor plate since I really do not like how it looks with the rest of the car.

Motor plate stripped and polished. Looks way better than the gold on this car.

you polish the wing mount and rear hubs to match i like the dye job

Paul

I recognize most of the mods you have done One thing I don't get is the outer bearing on the rear carriers. Is the bearing riding outside the carrier and if so, why? Also, the B4 cv's will work, but the B44 work a little better in my opinion.

You mention B4 shocks. You will need to run one internal limiter to reduce the down travel and some external limiters on the shaft to reduce the upward travel. I use a rubber o-ring on the bottom and top of the external spacers so it dampens the impact against the bottom of the shock body. Or, you could just grab a pair of 1.32 threaded bodies although they aren't a necessity.

Great job overall!

JHarris wrote:I recognize most of the mods you have done One thing I don't get is the outer bearing on the rear carriers. Is the bearing riding outside the carrier and if so, why? Also, the B4 cv's will work, but the B44 work a little better in my opinion.

You mention B4 shocks. You will need to run one internal limiter to reduce the down travel and some external limiters on the shaft to reduce the upward travel. I use a rubber o-ring on the bottom and top of the external spacers so it dampens the impact against the bottom of the shock body. Or, you could just grab a pair of 1.32 threaded bodies although they aren't a necessity.

Great job overall!

Thank you sir. Yes, the mods were because of your thread, so thank you for the information! I can definately see where the B44 cv's would work a whole lot easier! I bought a B4 for parts and was hoping I would not have to spend the extra money for B44 shafts. I have not started working on the B4 shocks yet, but was anticipating having to use limiters on them. Couldn't I use some fuel tubing for external limiters? It would dampen the impact as well as limit the up travel. Or would it not limit well enough?

As for the bearings riding outside of the rear carrier, I have used them temporarily as spacers. Since I had to move the CV so far out for inner clearance at the gear box, I had to use a spacer between the outer bearing and the B4 wheel spacer/pin.I am going to replace them with smaller and lighter aluminum spacers once I have some the right size.

Thanks again for the tutorial on this subject, it was extremely informative!

You could use fuel tubing, but I'd probably cut it a little long so when it compresses it doesn't allow the shock to collapse too far. By using a rigid limiter like a plastic spacer you don't have to worry about the limiter compressing and allowing the shaft to travel beyond the desired point.

I was hoping the bearing was just a spacer. A single aluminum spacer will be nice when it's done.

Glad I was able to help. When you set up your suspension just keep in mind that my set up is for a blue groove track in 100 degree weather with 90% humidity. If you are running in a cooler climate or a rough/fluffy surface you will want to go lighter on the fluid.

Here is where I am at with the build. I have not made my final decision on power, speed control, or receiver yet, but thinking brushed motor with my vintage Tekin G12IIIc. I used Factory Team B4 shocks. I did not have to change anything in the rear, the length was perfect. Instead of shortening the front shocks, I built a longer front shock tower that looks similar to the factory tower. I made a carbon shock tower brace that not only strengthens the tower, but acts as a spacer for the shocks as well. I need to find a body that will work too. The Protech body does not fit the Composite Craft chassis very well. I am almost thinking Parma Eagle, but not having one, I am not sure how that would fit either? Any suggestions out there?

Forgot to mention, I also had to move the battery cup forward for the Lipo's to fit. The factory holes were not centered either, so I centered the cup as well.

I decided I was going to run a VW body on my vintage racer. I had to raise my front body mount and I removed the B4 rear wing mount in favor of RC10 wing mounts. I always ran Bug bodies on my cars in the eighties, and love how they look on an RC10. I had this body from another car, and it was just sitting, so I had to trim it a bit differently and got it mounted. The Bug bodies always seemed to work good as well, but it has been since the 80's that I raced a Bug body so we will see how it goes.