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I've been using Deans ultra plugs for years and love them but they suck for my bicycle light application. They always come apart and I have to wire them together. I'm ready to switch all of it out in favor of a high quality positive locking plug that can handle some serious amperage. so what's out there?

I've always liked these for my non-r/c connectors........

http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_dt_2-way_connectors.html

The plug is a seperate P/N than the receptacle. Just scroll down. The plug is shown below the receptacle. They're rated at 13amps. I don't know if thats enough for your bicycle light.

powerpole connectors?

powerpoles are awesome. they do corrode over time though. I used them for years, and have now been switching over to the deans/knockoff ones since the price is pretty good now.

you say it's for your bike? what is the application exactly? I have delco weatherpack connectors since I do some ECM and fuel injection work. I have 3 position male and female connections and crimps, I can crimp up a set for you with pigtails to wire in, just need to know what color wire, and what gauge. I think the crimp can handle a 14awg no problem? The weatherpack connectors are silicone sealed, they are weatherproof, hence the name.

shoot me a pm if you want more info.

shodog wrote:I've been using Deans ultra plugs for years and love them but they suck for my bicycle light application. They always come apart and I have to wire them together. I'm ready to switch all of it out in favor of a high quality positive locking plug that can handle some serious amperage. so what's out there?

What kind of light setup are using that needs serious amperage? I've got a couple lights that are super bright and use very little power. The plugs are the same as what you would use to charge an rc transmitter.

My bicycle light is a hot rodded Nightsun. I chucked the 7.5 watt and 20 watt stock bulbs in favor of two 50 watt bulbs. So on high it's pulling 100 watts from a 11 cell D size NiMh battery I made.

shodog wrote:My bicycle light is a hot rodded Nightsun. I chucked the 7.5 watt and 20 watt stock bulbs in favor of two 50 watt bulbs. So on high it's pulling 100 watts from a 11 cell D size NiMh battery I made.

That probably makes my 2 ~300 lumen lights look like a penlite.
11 d cells has to be huge, have you tried a 4s lipo?

Here is a pic of my setup. I use this one on my commuter bike so the size and weight of the battery is not an issue.







on my Cross Country bike I use a water bottle battery that consists of 11 3300mah GP matched cells. I have lipo batteries but I'm not a fan of them. they are just too fragile for this application

so 100 watts is about 7.5 amps. nice.....

this is what the weatherpack connectors look like. I have 3 position pairs.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/images/uploads/512_1418_large.jpg

Hey SHO ,where's the Light Bar & Siren

is that a mag-21 and an avid tri-dangle? cool stuff.

I have lithium ion batteries for my mountain bike lights. works well and is tiny as the LED headlights don't require nearly that much juice.
I've got one of these for my helmet
http://www.cygolite.com/products/new/MityCross/mitycross350.html
and these for the bike:
http://www.cygolite.com/products/new/DualCrossPro/DualCrossPro_Lion.html

as for something actually ont topic for the original post:
you can get some of these locking clips for the commonly available powerpole connectors:
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/accessories/retention-clips.html

The thing about a locking clip for the powerpoles is that's just as much hassle as taking the wire off my deans. Is there something like the locking feature of a tamiya plug but high amperage rating like a deans?

This bike at the bottom of my trickle down of parts from my other bikes. Something I wish I never got rid of was a set of mag 21 SL with a CBC kooka fork brace. They would be sweet for this bike.

shodog wrote:The thing about a locking clip for the powerpoles is that's just as much hassle as taking the wire off my deans. Is there something like the locking feature of a tamiya plug but high amperage rating like a deans?

This bike at the bottom of my trickle down of parts from my other bikes. Something I wish I never got rid of was a set of mag 21 SL with a CBC kooka fork brace. They would be sweet for this bike.

I had a mag21 with an AC brake arch, aftermarket cnc'd crown/steerer and a tiatnium bolt/brake stud set. It was super light and stiff by period standards. wish I didn't sell it off.

Just a thought but if you're concern is them coming apart when you ride, why not just direct wire? is it that hard to undsolder if you want to take them off? I've seen a lot of guys use bullet style connectors like the ones we use with Lipos these days

Erich Reichert wrote:why not just direct wire?

I think Erich hit on a point. You could direct wire it with a switch to turn it on/off. Bring the charger to the bike or if you are like my place the charger is allready in the garage with the bike. Or...solder up a battery with threaded studs coming off it so you could 'nut' it together. Back when I was a wee one my brother took me froggin and we had those big square batterys and a strapped headlight that had eyelets on the wires to replace the battery when dead...you know the good old days of 'hey, thats what they make landfills for' type thing .
Todd