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Is there any way of fixing stripped holes in nylon or newer carbon composites parts? Like if it's cross threaded or has been overtightened to many times.

As long as it's not too badly stripped, swish a generous amount of CA glue around in the hole with a toothpick or pin, wait to dry and try the screw again. In my experience, that method works most of the time. If it doesn't work, you'll need to go to a larger size screw or replace the part.

As Roh stated I use the CA thing too. I've even gone as far as to CA the screw in the hole when I was runnin and couldn't get it to tighten up afterwards. Just a word on this one though...don't use aluminum screws if you do that...they don't always come out. U know anyone needing rc10gt rear bulkheads with aluminum screws snapped off flush with the bottom of the bulkhead? I have a few if you know anyone needing some frustration
Todd

You can always use a 3mm screw in the same hole; it's small enough to fit in the same hole but big enough to cut it's own threads. Metric flathead screws do have a different angle than standard screws, 90 degrees versus 82 degrees. If it is in a high stress area, keep this in mind since you will only have a tiny contact area on the countersink, which could cause you to break the screw. You can but metric countersink bits from tool supply places, but I haven't found them in regular hardware stores.

heli coil if you have enough wall to go to a larger hole size here is a link http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp

I too have used the CA method. I just put CA in the hole, put the screw as far in as neccesary, then once it dried I removed it to sort of "mold" new threads into the glue. It has worked for me many times and held up well.

I thought I read in an RCCA tech tip article a long time ago that when doing it this way, it helps to put wax on the screw first to help keep it from sticking so bad to the CA when trying to remove it later. I've never tried this method however, so I'd be curious as to how well it helps.......

yeah, wax should work. I put a drop of oil on the threads, then wipe it off with a towel. the little bit remaining helps to ensure you can remove the screw.

I've had to do this numerous times with shock shaft ends when they pull out driving around. it works good, sometimes too good, especially like mentioned with the aluminum screws. if you have time to set it up and use a steel screw, use that as a thread mold, then switch over to aluminum for assembly.