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T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 1:04 pm
by rctenracer
Picked up a T2 chassis on ebay. So far I filled the two holes on the side with jb weld. Cleaned up the chassis . The front bulk head is new . Cleaned up the trans and installed new diff balls , rings ,and out drives. Also mount the klien arms and new rpm mini bumper. The chassis has some wear on the bottom . Looks to have been run on carpet.The wheel base is about 1/2 inch longer than a gold tub. Going to use a B3 body on it from tower mounted with velcro.Still alot to do.

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 1:21 pm
by scr8p
you want the long wheelbase?

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 2:09 pm
by rctenracer
Good question. Never gave wheel base a thaught.

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:25 pm
by THEYTOOKMYTHUMB
rctenracer wrote:Good question. Never gave wheel base a thaught.
Just depends what you’re gonna do with it I guess. If you’re just gonna shelf it or run it in the road I think longer looks cooler. If you’re going to race it you may want to think again. It may surprise you though. R/C cars always surprise me. It’s amazing to think that little things like down force, suspension and wheelbase make such a difference at that scale. Makes it a lot more fun though. :D

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:49 pm
by scr8p
the main reason i bring it up is that your not gonna find a body long enough to cover the front. to me, it looks funny.

but it's super simple to shorten the t2 tub to A, B, and C tub length. the nose plate, buggy (old style) or truck, has 2 sets of mounting points, so either one can be used to do it. simply attach the nose plate to the t2 tub using the front 3 holes (for the shortest wheelbase). you can now use the 3 mounting points towards the back of the nose plate as a drill template, and the holes will be exactly where you need them.
002.JPG
once drilled, you can cut the front 7/16" (i believe) off the front of the tub. one cool thing about the t2 tub is there are 2 mounting holes for the nose brace tubes. the front one will be removed when you shorten the tub, but the rear one is exactly where you'll need it. :wink:

you will need to locate the servo further back aswell, but that's just a couple more holes. and shorten up a pair of nose brace tubes. :wink:

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 4:30 pm
by THEYTOOKMYTHUMB
scr8p wrote:the main reason i bring it up is that your not gonna find a body long enough to cover the front.
Another option would be to design a 2 piece body of some sort(so it can be extended). Not sure what direction to go with that idea, but there might be something cool that can be done. :idea:

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 4:47 pm
by treehugger
well i had no problem finding a body to fit my T2 :lol:

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 4:59 pm
by THEYTOOKMYTHUMB
treehugger wrote:well i had no problem finding a body to fit my T2 :lol:
Hugger went mental on a bag of Pecan Sandies! :shock: Gotta control those munchies man! :lol: Sorry rctenracer, I will bow out before I jack a good thread. :oops:

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:17 pm
by metallicats33
scr8p wrote:the main reason i bring it up is that your not gonna find a body long enough to cover the front. to me, it looks funny.
If you can get your hands on a Kyosho Triumph body, I think that will cover the length of the car and it should fit on the RC10 chassis with little mod.

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 5:18 pm
by rctenracer
scr8p wrote:the main reason i bring it up is that your not gonna find a body long enough to cover the front. to me, it looks funny.

but it's super simple to shorten the t2 tub to A, B, and C tub length. the nose plate, buggy (old style) or truck, has 2 sets of mounting points, so either one can be used to do it. simply attach the nose plate to the t2 tub using the front 3 holes (for the shortest wheelbase). you can now use the 3 mounting points towards the back of the nose plate as a drill template, and the holes will be exactly where you need them.
The attachment 002.JPG is no longer available
once drilled, you can cut the front 7/16" (i believe) off the front of the tub. one cool thing about the t2 tub is there are 2 mounting holes for the nose brace tubes. the front one will be removed when you shorten the tub, but the rear one is exactly where you'll need it. :wink:

you will need to locate the servo further back aswell, but that's just a couple more holes. and shorten up a pair of nose brace tubes. :wink:
Well I decided to cut down the chassis. Here is a pic of what I have so far. I will strip it down and take it to work. While the boss is away I have a whole shop to use, band saw , drill press, counter sinks, the works. Thanks for the info scr8p.

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:54 pm
by longboardnj
i always like the t2 buggy set up...did anyone ever give the long wheelbase a try??

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 12:03 pm
by scr8p
carloco8 built one and kept the long wheel base. i can't seem to find a build thread of it though. maybe he didn't have one, and just inserted pics of it into different threads.

but here's another one. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2398

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 10:53 pm
by longboardnj
scr8p wrote:carloco8 built one and kept the long wheel base. i can't seem to find a build thread of it though. maybe he didn't have one, and just inserted pics of it into different threads.

but here's another one. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2398
thanks... the t2/t2 buggy is always nice to see

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 12:41 pm
by rctenracer
I was to busy at work to cut the chassis down. I did get the B44 cvd's assembled and mounted them in the GT carriers. Slipped on the rear tires to see what it might look like finished . Here is a comparison of wheel bases next to my B3.

Re: T2 buggy build

Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 11:58 am
by amp_driven
Looks good.
I am thinking about the extra wheel base,
it may actually be better for the more powerful motors these days.
May help keep the front down a little more.
Just a thought.