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So I got the kit on Monday, built it quick, then took it apart to clean that grease out of the bearings. The tranny is back together and there is about 1/16" of side play in the top shaft, but I didn't notice that before.

The tranny seems REALLY sensitive to the tightness of the case screws. There is such little thread remaining that I skipped the silver washers, and it seems to bind if I tighten the screws past the point of barely touching. Does this free up over time?

The old-timey Stealths were always perfect out of the box it seemed.

i noticed the same thing with the trans case on the one i built.

SteveK wrote:So I got the kit on Monday, built it quick, then took it apart to clean that grease out of the bearings. The tranny is back together and there is about 1/16" of side play in the top shaft, but I didn't notice that before.

The tranny seems REALLY sensitive to the tightness of the case screws. There is such little thread remaining that I skipped the silver washers, and it seems to bind if I tighten the screws past the point of barely touching. Does this free up over time?

The old-timey Stealths were always perfect out of the box it seemed.

sandwich a .10 thoul shim between each case halve where the screws go through the shim-

the "old timey" stealths were made in USA, not China

Thanks, I'll give that a try. Any recommended brand for the shims? I need to get some slightly longer screws anyway; the two RPM conversions have the same issue with not leaving enough of the screw exposed.

Are they even made in China? The Chinese are usually better than the rest when it comes to quality control. It's the countries that were run my a military junta for 30 years, and have two different names that are the ones you watch out for.

I had to grind the heck out of the rear arm mount to get it to fit. The screws wouldn't line up until I cut all the boss off the hole for the hinge pints, which I now have to shorten a bit to fit cleanly. And the long 2-56 screws up front were stripped as soon as they met with some resistance, even with a quality hex driver. I shortened some DuBro screws and used them.

OK, looks like the slipper plates take up the play in the top shaft, so that's solved.

I wonder if I can use some kind of tape or Monokote or adhesive film of some kind along the edge of the case, like a gasket, instead of just shims at the screws.

A quicky with 0.007" electrical tape seems to work, but I'll do a complete job with some Monokote or pinstriping or something. Vinyl electrical tape is too stretchy and the adhesive doesn't stick to well. Could be a little thicker, just to be safe.

Damned, it's been so long since machining classes: .10 thou is .0010"?

Yes that's 10 thou

Charlie don't surf wrote:

SteveK wrote:So I got the kit on Monday, built it quick, then took it apart to clean that grease out of the bearings. The tranny is back together and there is about 1/16" of side play in the top shaft, but I didn't notice that before.

The tranny seems REALLY sensitive to the tightness of the case screws. There is such little thread remaining that I skipped the silver washers, and it seems to bind if I tighten the screws past the point of barely touching. Does this free up over time?

The old-timey Stealths were always perfect out of the box it seemed.

sandwich a .10 thoul shim between each case halve where the screws go through the shim-

the "old timey" stealths were made in USA, not China

They're made in Taiwan not China, I never had a problem with the tranny on my SC10. If you break a T-plate, make sure you get the new version for the gear diff tranny, the old T4 plate won't work without a lot of grinding.

What part is the t-plate? Is it a completely different part number, or is it like the front shock tower that is the same number but now a different part to work with both trucks (the new shock tower has an extra hole to hold the body mount)?

I got the Reedy shim kit today, #446. You get ten .010", five .005", and five .003". I went straight for the .010" and it works perfectly. You have to trim a bit of a lip in three spots, which is easy with a sharp knife, but be very careful to not leave any plastic shavings near the gears. I had a thin flake caught in the idler and it was driving me nuts, trying to figure out if one of the washers is rubbing or something. Once I got that out, it's very smooth, as free as it will be with rubber sealed bearings.

Now I'm off to find some slightly longer screws for the case, to give more bite into the motor plate. Might use some thread lock there too. Have to seal with case somehow, probably with electrical tape or pinstriping tape run around the seam.

Hot dang Associated's quality control has gone to pot. I am doing more hand-fitting on this truck than I ever have on an Associated kit before. Is it just the production and quality control that sucks? I mean are the parts designed before the move to the Orient also this bad? Regretting I bought this, seriously.

That never would have happened with TEAM ASSOCIATED....

I'm experiencing the same binding in my b4.1 tranny. With everything but the diff out, once the screws even touch, the diff binds. I tried to make a gasket with that red tuck tape you'd use for vapour barriers in construction; it's vicious sticky. But after adding a third layer it was still binding. It does seem like poor qc.

The 0.010" motor shims have worked pretty well. When you do it to your own tranny be sure to use all the screws holding the case together; mine felt great with only the three that went into the motor plate, but adding the ones that hold all the bracing together snugged it up a bit. It still feels OK, so I decided to run it a few times and see if it breaks in a little more.

For the screws I used some longer DuBro screws, ground them down until they were just proud of the motor plate, and then used Associated thread lock on them so they wouldn't loosen up.

i just recently bought the sc10 and am having trouble w the stock gear diff...my local hobby shop mentioned there was a recall on them due to incorrect amount of shims...and he was having the same problem he mentioned upgrading to the ball diff...i was wondering if i should jus take it to associated and have them fix the shim problem or if i should upgrade to a ball diff...