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Hey everyone,

Just wanted to share my efforts of taking the old and making it new. Check out the attached pic.

Quick questions.
1) RC10 hinge pins in the front with the RC10T bulkhead and dynotech arms are too short. Do I need to get RC10T hinge pins to make it work?

2) The RC10GT noseplate can bolt up to the main chassis in two positions. Which one should I be using, the one farthest away from the chassis or the holes closest? Farthest away setting let's me bolt the GT Nose Tubes up to the chassis without any drilling but I think this is wrong. Do I need to drill new holes and bolt the noseplate closer to the chassis?

Thanks in advance for your help.

I don't think pic attached. Trying for the third time.

Another pic

Welcome aboard the wagon .


Quick questions.
1) RC10 hinge pins in the front with the RC10T bulkhead and dynotech arms are too short. Do I need to get RC10T hinge pins to make it work?

-- Yes, you will need to order a set of RC10T hinge pins.
7209 Associated Hinge Pin Inner 1.675" Truck
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2916


2) The RC10GT noseplate can bolt up to the main chassis in two positions. Which one should I be using, the one farthest away from the chassis or the holes closest? Farthest away setting let's me bolt the GT Nose Tubes up to the chassis without any drilling but I think this is wrong. Do I need to drill new holes and bolt the noseplate closer to the chassis?


-- You will need to use the holes closest. This will require drilling holes in either the tubes or the chassis.




Ed

Thanks Ed! Lifesaver. So what do you think? I was very proud after finishing it last night at around 1:00 AM.

It's looking good.

Did you re-anodize or paint the nose plate?


Ed

Thanks. Wish I had an anodizing contact

It's a RC10GT plate off ebay. Was going to bolt it to a gold pan but I'm looking for a matching blue chassis. There's a hobby show next weekend at the Westchester County Center in NY. Going to see what vintage stuff I can pick up. Hopefully there's a decent selection.

If I don't get lucky there, I might either bolt it to a gold pan or de-anodize the gold pan and polish it. Still not sure what to do yet. Decisions decisions.

Either way I have time. There's about 14 inches of snow on the ground right now so I won't be taking her out anytime soon.

I was planning on my car being black/gray/red, until I found a set of blue shocks cheap. Then I dug out a blue motor plate and decided on blue. Funny how a project can sometimes take on a life of it's own.

Looking forward to seeing this one come together.

ED

Looking good TViz, one thing I like to do to these arms before mounting them is to round the edges on the hinges areas (specially the inside side) to prevent for the arm to rub with the chassis. You can look at a typical set of front arms and see that they are round around the hinge.

Keep the photos coming it is looking like a great start.

Thanks guys. Yes, blue was the theme I was trying to go with. The body will be white though. Pearl White actually with black accents like the ae logos and some other ideas I'm thinking of.

And Miguel, so funny that you mentioned the rubbing. After I finished putting the arms on last night, I tried to move them and they were a little tough. So I moved them back and forth a bunch of times and they became looser with the delrin bending as it rubbed the chassis.

I have all day Sunday to work on it and will break out the dremel to round off the inner edges a bit, shape up the chassis to the way I'd like it to look and finish the back end with the B44 CVD conversion and 2.2" wheels at all corners.

Do I keep the white/blue theme or break out the rit dye again and go all blue?

- You will need to use the holes closest. This will require drilling holes in either the tubes or the chassis.

why?? i think its best to use stock rc10t long wheelbase mount... use short screw with nut to hold chassis together then use buggy steering... aka the t2 long wheelbase set up... no fans of this set up???

longboardnj wrote:

- You will need to use the holes closest. This will require drilling holes in either the tubes or the chassis.

why?? i think its best to use stock rc10t long wheelbase mount... use short screw with nut to hold chassis together then use buggy steering... aka the t2 long wheelbase set up... no fans of this set up???

hell, i took a brand new t2 chassis and chopped a 1/2" inch off the front. in my opinion, a long wheelbase rc10 looks awful. if you want an rc10 that's as long as a truck, build a truck.

Long wheel base would be easier but I've found the more difficult the project, the more satisfying the results. Now, if there wasn't a foot of snow on the ground and I had the chance to take it out for a spin, I'm not so sure I could wait. Fyi, no intent to race, just fun.

longboardnj wrote:

- You will need to use the holes closest. This will require drilling holes in either the tubes or the chassis.

why?? i think its best to use stock rc10t long wheelbase mount... use short screw with nut to hold chassis together then use buggy steering... aka the t2 long wheelbase set up... no fans of this set up???

RC10's push pretty bad in race conditions as it is. Add in sticky 2.2 tires and a long wheelbase just magnifies the problems even more. But if you're just bashing and not racing then build it the way you want to.

Plus a truck length buggy just looks goofy, buggy's are supposed to be quick and nimble. To each their own I guess.

TViz wrote:Do I keep the white/blue theme or break out the rit dye again and go all blue?

Keep the white and blue... NO rit dye. after you bash the hell out of it for some time, do the dye to give it a new life. these cars can handle multiples life times as you can see from the forum. I say keep it as stock as possible and slowly change it. IMO the rit would be the last life. Actually after you dye it blue you can then dye it black to revive it one more time. I am talking another 10 or 15 years .

I would keep it like you have it no dye .