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Yup - another Worlds car!

This is my build-up thread for what is my first RC10.... I now also own a nice Gold Pan RC10.... but this is my project car & one that I intend to be my vintage runner (hopefully to be equipped with a Brushless motor & Lipo battery) There is a club quite local to me who run a vintage class (pre 96) So i'm hoping to race it there

I brought this car off ebay for what I think was a bargain £23 posted (about $30) I think the grainy picture & poor description mean't it was overlooked by most people?

This was the pic on ebay


Anyway on reciept of the car, it was obvious that it would never make a shelf queen - but with a clean up & re-build, make a great runner, which was exactly what I wanted, i've never driven an ali tubbed RC10 before so I can't wait to drive this one. Importantly the chassis & nose plate is straight, the shocks had no leaks & the Stealth transmission was smooth & complete.

Here's some pre strip-down pics;

I want to keep this car pretty much as AE intended but I have purchased a few nice extras just to freshen things up and allow me to run 2.2" wheels - all pretty much standard stuff - as gleamed from this very site, spec includes;

- B2/B3 MIP CVDs
- Avid bearings (to suit the above)
- Fastrax 5 spoke & Proline dished 2.2" Fr & R wheels (already had bearings to suit these wheels)
- Full B4 slipper assembly & topshaft (thanks to Brandon for clarifying what was needed)
- Fibrelite battery strap
- AE thumbscrews (for the above)
- Yokomo Molded wing (had in my tool box from Bitd)

+ loads of replacement/re-build parts following an order to Tower Hobbies

I have so far

Stripped the car into single components & cleaned everything. Stripped off the annodising from the u/side of the chassis & noseplate & wet-painted it satin black. I've left the top halves in the original black anno, as this was in pretty good shape after cleaning off the rock solid double sided tape. (I should get pics of these parts - i'm quite pleased how they've come out)

I've also re-built the Stealth tranny, replacing the diff balls, thrust & diff washer/plates (the latter have been buffed up on P400 - P600 wet & dry)

Transmission re-build (we call it a gearbox )


Think my felt has seen better days!






Shocks now cleaned re-built with new cap seals & fresh 30wt oil


The previous owner had obviously at some point used superglue to try & hold in the wing tubes - but it had spilled over & had stuck the shock mount to the bulkhead. This had made a right mess of the rear shock mount & caused it to de-laminate. My solution was to pull of the remaining top lamination, give the new surface a rub down & have sealed the fibrous surface with clear lacquer, looks ok I think. I've also sanded the edge of both front & rear mounts & sealed the edges with super glue.

Heck of a deal. Looks like a nice rebuild, and will make a supreme runner. Most have to build up to the worlds car, you started off right from the get go.

Did some one say Worlds Car? I like the resurrection so far! What type of pattern or surface it on that work board? Looks cool

Reminds me of the one I picked up at a LHS which according to the owner almost made it to the dumpster.
I equipped mine with: new worlds graphite re-pro shock towers front a rear from "Atlas" - Fronts are a bit taller to accommodate the B4 Threaded Body Shocks, B2 cvds / wheels, Dirtinator 16turn brushed motor / LRP Quantum Pro / Spektrum DX3S. Threw some chassis tape on the bottom to protect the rest of it. I cant wait to someday take to the track.

JPAE07 wrote:Reminds me of the one I picked up at a LHS which according to the owner almost made it to the dumpster.
I equipped mine with: new worlds graphite re-pro shock towers front a rear from "Atlas" - Fronts are a bit taller to accommodate the B4 Threaded Body Shocks, B2 cvds / wheels, Dirtinator 16turn brushed motor / LRP Quantum Pro / Spektrum DX3S. Threw some chassis tape on the bottom to protect the rest of it. I cant wait to someday take to the track.

Sounds sweet - do you have a build thread on it? Judging by the ebay picture, it looks like my car's fate could have ended with it being put in one of those bins

Charlie don't surf - thats my set-up board, its a sheet of laminated glass - the lamination has that printed pattern on it to mimick a metal mesh sheet. I work for a company who manufacture architectural metalwork, this was a sample that was offered to a client - but I managed to grab it back at the end of the contract... its just the perfect size & looks rather cool!

Here's some bits I did last night.... inspired by Kenooze's Kinwald replica build - I trimmed the rear bulkhead & wishbones to match Brian's car (My trimming isn't as neat as Kenooze's first class work) The original wishbones that came on my car had the rear 'lip' cut off (the wishbones in the picture are new ones) So it seems this was a popular modification.



As you can see from the bulkhead - this was a 'white' parts car that had been dyed black BITD... I shall have to re-dye this part along with some others that i've neatened up with the scalpal blade revealing the white.

& some pictures of my cleaned & re-sprayed tub

Original anodising just cleaned on top


Anodising stripped & resprayed underneath


Hope you approve

Dan,

Here is mine:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12424

JPAE07 wrote:Dan,

Here is mine:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12424

Hey JPAE07 thats really nice ..... its amazing how similar our builds will be - I didn't copy honest I think such builds are really satisfying - I can't wait to finish mine. Just really got to dye those few remaining parts then its build-up time

P.S; I love those original Trinity Kinwald motors.... I had a 15 triple Back in the day, was one of my favourites for 2wd - you could gear to be as quick as something like an 11t! but would be smoother, therefore being more suited to 2wd - it lasted for ages too, went like a rocket on its last skim!

Hmm never seen the stealth broke down before, now I see the major difference between the stealth and 6 gear trans.

Its getting there, I did have the gearbox in but I realised that the thread for the two rear most screws through the chassis kick-up had been over tightened, ruining the thread (that had already opened up for M3 rather than 4-40) So i'm just going to open up the holes for clearance & nut & bolt it instead - there should be enough clearance to get the motor in on the gearing I need

Dan, that car looks great. It's good to see these old beasts with a second chance at life.

Awesome work - inspiring... and bookmarked for my soon-to-come Dual WC restore

Paul

Very cool, fun to look at your pics and build process. I just bought a NIB Team Car (not sure if it's the same) and am debating what my next steps are with it.

flipwils11 wrote:Very cool, fun to look at your pics and build process. I just bought a NIB Team Car (not sure if it's the same) and am debating what my next steps are with it.

put it the closet close the door and walk away

Thanks for the comments guys, here's some more pictures of the car pretty much complete - i'll add some more pictures when I've added the electrics, painted the shell & mounted the wing.

Turned out ok I think - certainly good enough for a runner.











Been having trouble getting the damping right (& leaking shock top caps). I first filled them all with what I thought was 30wt (as per the instructions), but it was way over-damped, then I had a cap that suddenly started leaking, so I re-filled them with some 20wt oil but its now - under-damped.... i'll have another go but I think i'll buy some new 30wt as the stuff I was using was un-marked.... so in truth could have been anything.

BTW does anybody have any experience with the plastic bleeder caps? What is the process for building shocks using these?