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I Have been working on a RC10 runner and have ran into a bit of a problem. The only steering bell cranks I have are off my RC10 graphite and they are all metal w/ball bearings: Well the runner i'm building is a gold tub with an original nose and wide arms. My problem is the steering ball cap on the bell crank hits the ball cap on the shock tower in the stock position:
So I used the optional nose plate mounting holes to extend the nose plate out and everything seamed fine but when pressure is applied to the front suspension the front tires turn inward like a V: With the nose plate in the stock holes the suspension functions correctly: I'm at a loss, what can I do to get the suspension to function right with the front plate extended?
Also, did they ever make nose tubes to accommodate the extended nose plate or do I have to tap out the ones I have

those bellcranks never work right on a tub chassis because of the drop down in the nose plate, and the thickness of the bellcrank. one thing that would work would be to move your inner camber mount on the shock tower to one of the outer holes. but, you might not like the way the suspension works. you'll either get too much negative camber, or not enough, during compression. if it's just a basher, it shouldn't really matter, though.

another thing you could try would be shorter ball studs on the bellcrank and the shock tower.....

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLCC9&P=SM

or, you could mill the front of the bellcrank until it clears (not the best option in my opinion for that bellcrank)

I think these black ball studs
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZX6&P=7
have the shortest stem height of any of the AE products, and should help with the above problem.
Extending the nose while keeping the bellcranks in the back position really screws up the geometry as you have seen.
I have gone the simple route to fix this on a runner, trim the tops of the ballcups with an x-acto knife slightly until they clear.

problem with the RPS/Losi bellcranks is that they were designed before the CE shock strut appeared (inner camber rods are placed more inwards), they work perfectly with the first stock shock strut though!

if you are not strictly attached to the originality of the shock tower, you could probably drill another hole in it either just above or further out from that inner most hole. either way will keep the suspension geometry closer than moving to the outer holes. Thats probably what I would do if I was going to run it. For a shelfer, I'd leave it alone.

the other 'way out of the norm' option would be to stick a thin plate under the entire front suspension, lifting the front bulkheads up to make some clearance. maybe a 1/16" thick aluminum plate.

hi guy's.i think that those belcrank are way to thick.thats why they rub like that and they cause that bump steers problem.on my rc10,i have MIP ZMS and whit silver ball stud
and rpm ball end i would get the same rub.i had to go to a black ball stud.you are using RPM one piece link wich doesnt help.if you want to keep those bellcrank i think you will
need to use black ball stud on the crank and also on the shock tower.me i would find another belcrank setup altougeter and use these nice alu one on your graphite chassis.
keep up to good work mate.

These are the shortest I've come across.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=LOSA6029&utm_source=froogle
You would have to succumb to putting Losi parts non your AE tho.

Thanks for all the tips guys. I was afraid I would have to find a new bellcrank. Any advise on finding a new bellcrank setup? or is ebay my only option? I kinda like the extra length with the nose plate extended. is there any way to get the suspension to work with the extra length? The car's not really a basher, it's actually an A stamp in good cosmetic condition.... besides the fact the owner before me painted it blue... then black I'm just test fitting everything right now and then i'm going to turn it into a real nice track runner...

I was just looking at mine. It's been so long since I've had my RC10 out I don't even remember the terms. If the Bell Crank is the two metal steeing thinks that connect to the servo and are tied together with the single black piece I don't have that problem. I do remember having problems 20 years ago but don't remember what it was. I used Dubro plastic end pieces like the ones in the link below. The flatness of the ends actually go under and do not hit the ends you mention. My balls or whatever they're called are in the same shock tower holes you used. As I recall the setup I use to connect the bell crank also was used to set the toe in and toe out but I could be wrong. Your solid piece looks like it won't allow for that.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DUB369

Hope I helped and didn't confuse ya.

FordPSD wrote:I was just looking at mine. It's been so long since I've had my RC10 out I don't even remember the terms. If the Bell Crank is the two metal steeing thinks that connect to the servo and are tied together with the single black piece I don't have that problem. I do remember having problems 20 years ago but don't remember what it was. I used Dubro plastic end pieces like the ones in the link below. The flatness of the ends actually go under and do not hit the ends you mention. My balls or whatever they're called are in the same shock tower holes you used. As I recall the setup I use to connect the bell crank also was used to set the toe in and toe out but I could be wrong. Your solid piece looks like it won't allow for that.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DUB369

Hope I helped and didn't confuse ya.

a pair of those with button head screws and no conical spacer for the inner mount on the camber link would probably be the easiest solution.

Note that if you do want to use the longer wheelbase setting you need to use a second set of screws in the forward position to mount the bellcranks or as you noticed your geometry will be all off with massive bump steer.

Thanks for all the help guys but I think I found the solution to my problem
Found them at a random hobby shop not too far from my house for $10. They are exactly the extra length needed with the nose plate extended. I already test fitted them and they work perfect. so if any one wants to run their RC10 with the nose plate in the extended position you need to get the RC10T steering or equivalent to prevent bump steer.

The price sure was right.