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Picked this up yesterday. Seemed like a pretty good deal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320449502860&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I know this is a truck and this is the RC10 buggy section. This will be the foundation for a clone of the car I ran at the vonats.

More to follow after it arrives....

Looks great for the money, Brandon. Sometimes the dirty ones surprise you!

Looks like a good deal for the money Brandon! I just jumped and picked up a worlds tub car,,, wish it was the same price point as your 10T but it was three times that

I know this may seem like it is in the wrong thread, being a truck and all, but I promise it will be a buggy in short order. Anyway, here are some pics of what came in the mail yesterday.

Overall, it is in pretty good shape for the $$. I was afraid it was a sport version equipped with bushings, but to my surprise, it is completely ball raced. Some surface rust on the fasteners, outdrives, dogbones.... the usual. Chassis bottom has signs of use, but nothing nasty like a bent chassis or anything.

The reason for this build: I got the wife started with a B4. First time driving ANY r/c vehicle on the track. Lo and behold, she really enjoys it!. I let her drive both the B4 and my '91 worlds car, and she prefers the worlds car better. Can't blame her, so do I. So to further her enjoyment with racing I told her I would make one of her own. I will not be cutting down the sides like mine, just leave the chassis stock. Build process will be documented including pics and part #'s. For anybody looking for a well balanced vintage buggy to race, copy this setup. It works.

Good Deal! Looking forward to the build.

Ed

Ok tech gurus, question....

I have been using the RPM RC10GT rear hubs, Dynotech/klein rear arms, and B4 cvd's to convert the rear end of the older RC10's to run B4 wheels. This works, but it leaves me just a hair narrower than your typical B4. I can live with it unless I can find the answer to the question below.

My question is this: I want to try a set of B4 rear hubs. They have the pivot hole more inboard thus effectively widening the rear a little bit in the process. My problem is finding a CVD axle to work with it. The B4 CVD would now be too short with the B4 hubs. (I believe they are 70mm length) I would need a new bone length of 75-76mm. Anybody clue me in? B44? Part #?

i don't know of an mip bone between 70mm and 79mm (<-- custom works wide). a b44 rear cvd kit is narrower than a b4 cvd kit, and i think a b44 front cvd kit would be too wide for what you want. i'm pretty sure mip will custom make any length your little heart desires. don't know what something like that would cost, though.

i would just get a pair of wheel spacers like the D.O. guys use, and call it a day. i used a pair of .200 spacers (i believe), and it pushed the rear out to 9 3/4" (10" is roar max i think).

scr8p wrote: i'm pretty sure mip will custom make any length your little hard desires.

I might take offense to that remark.....

I think that would be the way to go as far as the axle spacers go. Got plenty of thread left for the locknuts to grab onto?

sorry brandon, nothing meant by it. just used the wrong word. i do that alot when i type while thinking of something else. i edit my above post.

i used custom works low profile 8-32 aluminum locknut. works fine.

they do make them in different width. i'm pretty sure mine are .200, but i'd need to measure them.

dynotech has them: .100 (#23100), .150 (#23150), and .200 (#23200).

http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=23100

the ones they show in the pics look like .100 and .200. so, i'm starting to think mine are .150. oh, and here's what's left of the threads on my axles once installed with the low profile nuts.

to do this Scrap's way with the dynotech spacers- what CVD's are you using? I got lost between the B4 to B44 front's back my sister...

b4 or b44 rear cvd's. the axle length is identical between the 2, but the total length of the b44 rear cvd is slightly shorter than the b4. that's why i used the b44 kit. i was afraid the b4's would bottom out in the outdrives during race conditions. it was close with them, just working the suspension sitting on the workbench.

I experimented with the B44 rear hubs during my old-new build. Using the B4 CVDs, the bone came up a tad short. Even with a good dose of negative camber, it was right at the very end of the out drive.

On my 2.2 vintage racer, I used the Custom Works .125” spacers and low profile nuts. The width is well within the ROAR 250mm limit. I’m using the RPM hubs, RPM Worlds arms and B44 CVAs.

ha ha told ya she would

im using the spacers on my sprint they work well and let me run the b4 wheels with the stock setup . they have some at the lhs

I think BJ4 rear CVD's are slightly longer than B4's and will work with what you are trying to do.